GUCCI SS2020 流水線上的時裝哲學

明周文化 更新於 2019年09月24日08:41 • 發布於 2019年09月23日00:29

人活到某一個年紀,就算穿上當下最新朝的服裝,都可以失去靈魂;情況就像在港鐵站上漫長的傳送帶,以打發時間的心態站在右邊,也可以從左邊衝衝忙忙的走到目的地。自從Alessandro Michele成為Gucci的創意總監之後,我們看過捧上自己人頭的模特兒、又戴上面具探討何謂內在、甚麼是真實的哲學話題;到了2020年春夏系列,他將場地化成一個疑似瘋人院的診所,放置不同的傳送帶,一眾白衣模特兒先是如水般緩緩流動,然後又突然換上華衣快速行走,再次以戲劇/行為藝術方式表達Alessandro Michele最喜歡的議題:「個人」(Person)。

直擊GUCCI SS2020後台實況

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Clean lines and intense lighting, the show space imagined by @alessandro_michele to present the #GucciSS20 women’s and men’s collection. See the show live on @Instagram Stories and @youtube at 4:00pm CEST. #AlessandroMichele #mfw

A post shared by Gucci (@gucci) on Sep 22, 2019 at 6:56am PDT

上半部:復製人前傳

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Uniforms, utilitarian clothes, normative dress, including straitjackets, were included in the #GucciSS20 fashion show as the most extreme version of a uniform dictated by society and those who control it. These clothes were a statement for the fashion show and will not be sold. @alessandro_michele designed these blank-styled clothes to represent how through fashion, power is exercised over life, to eliminate self-expression. This power prescribes social norms, classifying and curbing identity. The Creative Director’s antidote is seen in the Gucci Spring Summer 2020 lineup of 89 looks, he has designed a collection that conveys fashion as a way to allow people to walk through fields of possibilities, cultivate beauty, make diversity sacrosanct and celebrate the self in expression and identity. #AlessandroMichele

A post shared by Gucci (@gucci) on Sep 22, 2019 at 11:25am PDT

就算沒有過往神話的主題,校園風風格、裸體的裙子、SM元素的細節,Alessandro Michele告訴大家,要break the rules(停電)才能活出自我。(圖 /互聯網)

未開騷之前,場內佈滿紅色的燈光,讓人看得頭昏眼花甚至感到局促。然而音樂響起之際,二十一位純白服裝的男女模特兒,沒有動作、眼神呆滯的從傳送帶行走,細看衣服不像這幾季Gucci的華麗及中性風格,反之白色的棒球外套、Oversize的風衣,表面似是病袍,但又與今天的街頭風格無疑,讓場內觀眾一頭霧水。又或者Alessandro Michele所表達的,沒有個性,在流水線上任人觀賞如同病人服裝般無趣;也就是說,社會潮流控制了我們的想法,衣服同樣可以消除個體的自我表達。(據說白色部分系列只作時裝騷展示,並不會公開發售)

下半部:中途停電後的理想國

然而,正當摸不著頭腦之際,會場突然停電,模特先通通從傳送帶跑走;漆黑幾秒亮起燈光之後,世界恍惚回到理想的面貌,熟悉的Gucci Style才出電大家眼前,就算沒有過往神話的主題,校園風風格、裸體的裙子、SM元素的細節,Alessandro Michele告訴大家,要break the rules(停電)才能活出自我,否則只是行屍走肉般在傳送帶漫無目的被傳送。

中一位模特雙手寫著的“MENTAL HEALTH IS NOT FASHION” (圖/互聯網)

或許,人生,就像其中一位模特雙手寫著的“MENTAL HEALTH IS NOT FASHION” ,要有點瘋狂才夠有趣,時裝的意義,大概如此。

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