Dame Patricia Ann McGrath, best known as Pat McGrath, is a name etched in the beauty history books as the legendary Mother of Makeup, but even such a moniker fails to adequately describe the revolutionary force she embodies as the most influential makeup artist of our time. An artist in every sense, her impact stretches far and wide, having consistently pushed the boundaries of what makeup can be since the dawn of her career in the early ’90s.Amidst the glamour and splendour of the fashion world’s most iconic runways, where fashion transcends clothing and becomes pure art, McGrath’s artistry is the keystone that anchors the magic of fashion’s fantastical universe, adding layers of narrative and depth with every brushstroke. As models serve as the canvases embodying her legacy as a visionary trailblazer, her eponymous brand, Pat McGrath Labs, is the beauty wand taking her artistic prowess and influence to soaring heights with innovative, highest of quality makeup must-haves that are undisputedly in a league of their own.
Pat McGrath backstage at the Issa fall-winter 2009 show
With all that said, from being the makeup maestro who transformed beauty as we know it to be the mastermind behind a game-changing beauty powerhouse, we can’t help but wonder: For a creative expression as subjective and personal as beauty, what does beauty mean to the Mother of Makeup herself? Keep reading to find out!
Pat McGrath during the early years of her career
Many of us who fell in love with beauty at a young age can agree that we owe it all to our mothers, including yourself, and we all have our own anecdotes about how they influenced our love for beauty. How has your mother shaped you into the beauty maven you are today?
My mother was my first and most important influence. She was completely fascinated with fashion and makeup, and that instilled in me a lifelong passion for beauty. Her obsession became my obsession. My first beauty memory is of creating my own skincare. I was still in primary school when I became fascinated with the idea of creating my own moisturiser, probably because my mother took such amazing care of her skin. I mixed various ingredients that I believed would moisturise my skin and make it glow. When I was finished, I left the cream in the refrigerator to set.That evening, I sat in my mother’s vanity and applied the concoction, feeling like a glamorous star from a classic Hollywood film. It’s funny to think that, decades later, I’d be doing the same thing backstage at runway shows across Europe. I came up with my own skin prep for the models by mixing rose water with a simple moisturiser. When I launched Pat McGrath Labs, that blend eventually became Divine Skin: Rose 001 The Essence.
Pat McGrath backstage with Shalom Harlow at Dior’s spring 2007 couture show
Pat McGrath backstage with Naomi Campbell at Valentino’s spring-summer 2005 couture show
Beauty can be such a powerful thing. It can be a tool of empowerment, a medium of self-liberation, a storyteller, a means of connecting with others—the list goes on. What is beauty to you?
Beauty has been a constant source of joy and self-expression for me. It's a magical form of communication that transcends words and has the power to transform not just appearances but also emotions and perceptions. One of the products that embody this transformative power is our MatteTrance Lipstick. This groundbreaking formula is more than just a lipstick; it's a tool of empowerment. Designed to deliver pure colour in one swipe, it allows anyone to express themselves with high-impact, couture-quality pigments.Its unique, oil-infused powders ensure that it feels featherweight and ultra-comfortable, making the application not just effortless but also a joyful act of self-expression. Whether applied directly for an intensely opaque finish, painted on with a lip brush for ultimate precision, or pressed onto the lips for a beautiful, blurred stain, MatteTrance is a celebration of the art of beauty and a testament to the empowering, liberating qualities it can bring to life.
Pat McGrath with André Leon Talley at the Innovator of the Year Awards 2013, where she was awarded as the Fashion Innovator of the Year
The beauty industry has come a long way in terms of diversity and inclusivity, and you have played a major role in these changes. How do you approach these issues, and what do you think still needs to be done?
Seeing and celebrating the beauty of everyone has always been the core of everything I do as an artist and with Pat McGrath Labs. It’s vital to continue advocating for diversity and inclusivity, and to create beauty for all. For example, making sure that our complexion products, like our Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Foundation and Concealer really cater to every skin tone and undertone. We’ve made great strides, but the journey continues towards an even greater representation in beauty.
See also: 5 Asian beauty influencers breaking gender stereotypes and embodying diversity in beauty
As a trailblazer in the beauty industry, how do you stay inspired and continue to innovate?
Inspiration surrounds us—from the natural world to the bustling realms of art and technology. My curiosity drives me; I remain open to new ideas and am constantly amazed by the beauty that unfolds daily. This passion for discovery is what led to the innovation behind our Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Foundation. This revolutionary formula is not just makeup; it’s a testament to what happens when you blend scientific ingenuity with artistic insight.Infused with Vita-Serum Complex for deep hydration and enriched with Diamond Core Powder to blur imperfections, it’s designed to enhance the skin’s natural luminosity while offering buildable coverage that feels like you’re wearing nothing at all. This foundation, born on the runway and perfected for real life, represents our commitment to pushing the boundaries of beauty by merging high-performance ingredients with cutting-edge technology.
Pat McGrath backstage with Naomi Campbell and Donatella Versace at Versace’s fall-winter 1998 show
Having worked with some of the most illustrious names in fashion throughout your career, from John Galliano to Miuccia Prada and many more, what are some of the ways they have inspired you?
Working with visionaries has helped define my career and taken my artistry to new levels. They’ve each shown me different ways to envision and execute creativity, leaving an indelible mark on my own creative journey.
Your eponymous beauty label, Pat McGrath Labs, has undeniably set the bar at unprecedented heights with exceptional beauty products that are simply masterpieces. What is your creative process when developing new products, and what do you hope to achieve with your brand in the long run?
First of all, thank you! Pat McGrath Labs has been such a highlight of my life and really the tangible reflection of my artistry, so I appreciate you recognising that. Developing new products in the Labs requires intuition, innovation, and ceaseless experimentation— not to mention a lot of swatching and a ton of testing both backstage and in our office.
Ultimately, I launched Pat McGrath Labs to bring a new level of artistry and innovation to the beauty industry. Take, for instance, our original three Mothership Eye Palettes—Subliminal, Sublime, and Subversive. They began with the inspiration drawn from a wide array of sources—art, fashion, history, and the sublime intricacies of nature. Each palette was meticulously designed using groundbreaking formulas with spectacular colours and textures, really pushing the boundaries of cosmetics. And they are there to serve, not as an eyeshadow palette, but as an invitation to explore and create without boundaries.
Don’t miss: 8 highly anticipated beauty brands coming to Malaysia in 2024
Models at Maison Margiela’s spring-summer 2024 couture show, where McGrath’s porcelain doll-esque makeup looks took the fashion and beauty world by storm
Whilst McGrath has always been ahead of her time, her creations at this particular show are arguably her most groundbreaking and iconic works yet
Is there a look you have done that you would deem as your personal all-time favourite?
Every look is unique and special to me, and I’m so proud of each one I’ve created and will create. The response to the “glass skin” for Maison Margiela Artisanal spring-summer 24 collection, however, was truly something to behold. The immense outpour of love for this feat of artistry and innovation was incredibly heartwarming. It is an experience I will never forget.
Read more: Everything you need to know about Pat McGrath’s porcelain doll look for Maison Margiela
What’s a beauty trend you would like to bring back?
I adore the bold and unapologetic glamour of the ‘70s—it was a time of power and playfulness in beauty. I’d relish in seeing its daring spirit make a resurgence, particularly through modern innovations like the Divine Cream Blush: Legendary Glow Colour Balm. This multifunctional marvel not only imparts a nourishing burst of radiance to lips and cheeks but also mirrors the ’70s ethos of fearless expression.
With its hydrating actives and buildable, non-sticky formula, it delivers a glass-skin effect and a glossy finish that echoes the era’s lustrous, radiant aesthetics. Enriched with shea butter, squalane, and passion fruit extract, it ensures every complexion is smooth, supple, and ready to embrace the playful spirit of the ’70s beauty trends with a modern twist.
Pat McGrath Labs’ Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Blurring Under-Eye Powder in shade Baby Pink
Pat McGrath Labs’ Divine Blush: Legendary Glow Colour Balm in shade Divine Rose
Pat McGrath Labs’ Dark Star Mascara
And finally, what are your three Pat McGrath Labs must-have products?
I truly am in love with all of the products I’ve created. They represent my favourite beauty secrets that everyone can share and enjoy. But if I have to choose three at this very moment, then I will say the Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Blurring Under-Eye Powder because of how beautifully it brightens and pulls your makeup together. Plus, we recently launched a new Baby Pink shade that helps neutralise dark circles. I don’t go a day without wearing my Dark Star Mascara; even if you’re not wearing any other makeup, a few coats of this genius volumising formula makes a huge difference. And finally, I’ll say our best-selling Divine Blush: Legendary Glow Colour Balm. The formula is dewy, hydrating, and long-lasting, giving your complexion an instant pick-me-up!
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