French chef Loïc Portalier is driven by a relentless pursuit of innovation, blending strong French cooking techniques with modernity to create dishes that resonate deeply with guests. His journey includes prestigious roles at Michelin-starred establishments such as Epicure at Le Bristol Paris, Restaurant Paul Bocuse, and Restaurant Le Clos des Cîmes in France, along with tenures as sous chef at Louise under esteemed chef Julien Royer and as head chef at Claudine in Singapore.
With a wealth of experience and a fresh perspective, Portalier now serves as the executive chef at Louise, where he also spearheads a new culinary concept that celebrates the sociable nature of French cuisine, presenting it in a stripped-down yet flavourful manner.
In this interview, Portalier shares his passion for the culinary arts and the mentors who have influenced his journey. From his early start in the kitchen to his current role under the guidance of Royer, Portalier’s story is one of curiosity, innovation and dedication. Join us as we uncover the essence of his cuisine, his cherished food memories, and his vision for the future of Louise and La Terrace.
See also: Get to know Alyn Williams, the British chef helming Magistracy Dining Room
In your own words, how would you describe your style of cuisine?
Attached to tradition with a modern twist. My style of cuisine is inspired by many different things, including products, art, cultures and techniques.
What inspired the concept for La Terrace by Louise, and how does it differ from the dining experience offered at Louise?
We wanted to offer a different dining experience for our guests and provide a space fitting for various occasions, whether it’s for an after-work drink, a light lunch, or a casual dinner with friends. At La Terrace by Louise, our guests can share tasty light bites and dishes in a unique environment in Hong Kong that is affordable.
The pineapple tomato at La Terrace by Louise
Do you have a favourite dish from La Terrace by Louise’s menu? Please tell us why it is your favourite.
My favourite dish has to be Pineapple tomato with yellow peach and basil dressing. It looks simple but it is extremely flavourful and refreshing, making it the perfect summer dish.
What is it like working with Julien Royer?
Julien is an incredibly supportive chef to work with. Since day one, he has been there for me. He is always available whenever I need him and always has great advice with sensibility. At the same time, he gives me the liberty to express and grow. He is an amazing mentor. He is also extremely humble and down to earth—many in the industry know that. He is greatly admired and respected by his staff, partners and chefs.
What is one thing that many people do not know about you?
I started working in a kitchen when I was 14 years old, and I am extremely curious. Some may see it as a weakness, but I believe curiosity is what keeps you on your toes and alert to changes and happenings around you.
Who has been the biggest influence on you professionally to date?
Regis Marcon, for his very familial approach.
I would say Paul Bocuse chefs also have great influence, especially at the beginning of my career; they taught me all the basics I needed to know as a chef. Lately, of course, chef Julien Royer has had the greatest influence on me because of his way of managing people, his ambition, his vision and his approach to gastronomy.
Which movie or book do you think every chef should watch or read?
I would say the movie L’invention de la Cuisine by Paul Lacoste. It gives great reference to the kitchen, featuring some of the best chefs of their generation, all chefs from three Michelin-starred restaurants at the time the show was produced: Michel Troisgros, Pierre Gagnaire, Olivier Rollinger, Pascal Barbot and Michel Bras. It was extremely inspiring to me when I first started my career.
I would also highly recommend Grant Achatz’s book Life on the Line. It is a very thorough, yet inspiring story. It demonstrates a chef’s resilience, and that you can achieve and overcome pretty much everything if you set your mind to it.
Which chef would you most like to cook with—dead or alive?
Thomas Keller. The number of chefs he has trained and mentored is impressive. His mentees are all successful and respected chefs today. His approach to gastronomy and leadership is very inspirational to me.
Another one would be Arnaud Donckele, chef of Plénitude & La Vague d’or Restaurant, both three Michelin-starred restaurants in France. To me, he is the chef to follow for his vision and philosophy.
What is the one ingredient you can’t live without?
Cheese.
What is the best restaurant you have ever eaten at?
A moment or a dish would define the best memory for me, rather than the restaurant itself.
It was a meal in Argentina when I was on holiday. I have no recollection of the name of the restaurant—I only remember it was located in Salta—it was a food truck parked on the street, with only six to eight seats in front of the truck, and a barbecue at the back, which they call the “asado”. A close friend of mine, originally from Argentina, brought me there. I still remember there were two guys behind the truck, cooking multiple kinds of meats and vegetables, with sauces and condiments. We were supposed to stop there for a quick snack, but the meal was so delicious we ended up ordering everything available on his barbecue. Everything he cooked for us was delicious.
I have a couple of fond memories like that, including a tandoori crab dish that I tasted on a recent trip to Mumbai with Aditi Dugar from Masque Restaurant; her team brought us to this place called Trishna which was outstanding.
What is your favourite food city or foodie travel destination?
Tokyo. I visited the city once and it completely blew my mind. The quality of the food and ingredients, and the consistency are just unbelievable. I missed the food the minute I left the city.
It’s your last meal—what’s on the menu?
To me, it doesn’t matter too much what’s on the plate, but who’s around the table enjoying my last meal with me.
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