Gone are the days when dinner entertainment meant genuine conversation. Now, we crave more. In Hong Kong, we’ve long been wooed by dining theatrics, but for some, balancing showmanship and substance remains a tricky act to master.
As I scroll through my Instagram feed, I’m struck by how dining has morphed into a full-blown spectacle. We’re now treated to parades of caviar, truffle showers, noodle gymnastics and enough dry ice to rival an Eighties music video. But do we truly need all this theatrical flourish just to get to the main course?
Take the flambé renaissance, for instance. It’s back because it’s a surefire way to rack up likes on social media. There’s something undeniably Instagrammable about setting food alight, even if it means singeing an eyebrow or two. But when Baked Alaska becomes more charred than charming, you begin to wonder if it was worth the risk of third-degree burns. A flaming duck, however, is a different story.
The flaming duck at Hutong
At Hutong, the duck is flambéed with Chinese rose wine and rum, adding extra crisp and a lingering floral sweetness to the flavourful meat. Then there’s the smoked butter chicken at Leela: opt for the Laphroaig whisky flambé, and your dish is transformed into an olfactory delight with an added layer of smokiness.
Leela’s smoked butter chicken
But tableside guacamole? That’s a hard pass from me. Watching someone peel and smash an avocado is about as thrilling as watching paint dry. And then there’s cheese wheel pasta. Watching hot pasta swirl around in a hollowed-out Parmigiano Reggiano wheel might dazzle some, but to me, it’s indulgence for the sake of indulgence, and a cleaning nightmare to boot.
To be fair, some tableside creations do make sense. Take the seafood congee at Check In Taipei. They roll out a trolley with a pot of broth, Japanese snow crab, prawns, clams, mushrooms, vegetables and rice, and proceed to cook it right before your eyes. A cracked egg adds a velvety finish, turning it into a rich, comforting bowl of seafood bliss. The smell alone heightens the anticipation, amplifying a seemingly simple dish into an event.
Seafood congee set up at Check In Taipei
At other times, the theatrics are part of the hospitality. Take the mignardises at Tate Dining Room—these bite-sized desserts are wheeled out on a beautiful chinoiserie-styled cart. It’s like opening a magical wardrobe to find a trove of sweet treasures; a delightful finale rather than a desperate bid for attention. Over at Estro, a selection of olive oils is presented with the kind of reverence usually reserved for fine wine. As your bread arrives, you’re treated to a mini masterclass in the liquid gold, sampling a spectrum of flavours that dance on the palate. Now, that’s the kind of tableside charm that hits the sweet spot.
Olive oils at Estro
While some tableside antics might seem like unnecessary frippery, they can enhance the dining experience when wielded with a light touch. The food should always be the star of the show, but a little culinary theatre can play a good supporting role. Even if your eyes roll at anything too showy, occasionally, it’s worth going along for the ride. After all, who doesn’t love a good story to tell after dinner?
A treasure trove of sweet treats at Tate Dining Room
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