Hong Kong’s culinary scene welcomes a fresh face in Oliver Li, the chef behind the contemporary Cantonese restaurant Jee, aptly named to reflect his purpose and ambition. With a decade of experience in Michelin-starred establishments like L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and L’Envol, and refined skills honed in Paris under chef David Toutain, Li masterfully blends tradition with modernity, creating dishes that captivate and delight.
At Jee, Li collaborates with veteran chef Siu Hin-chi of Ying Jee Club to push the boundaries of Cantonese cuisine. Signature dishes such as crispy sea cucumber with shrimp mousse in black pepper lobster sauce and fresh crab meat toast with XO sauce showcase his innovative approach and commitment to quality, utilising fresh, locally sourced ingredients to reimagine classic flavours.
In this interview, Li shares his passion for Cantonese cuisine, the inspiration behind Jee, and his journey from aspiring chef to culinary leader. Discover his creative process, cherished food memories, and vision for the future of Cantonese dining.
See also: Get to know Loïc Portalier, the new French chef helming Louise and La Terrace by Louise
Chefs Oliver Li and Siu Hin-chi
The main dining room at Jee
In your own words, how would you describe your cuisine?
The cuisine is a blend of cross-generational and cross-cultural influences, rooted in the essence of Cantonese cuisine. It is inspired by culinary traditions, both old and new, that come together to create a vibrant and dynamic dining experience.
What inspired the concept for Jee?
The concept for Jee is inspired by a shared vision, driven by a deep curiosity and commitment to innovation. Chef Siu and I have come together to push the boundaries of Cantonese cuisine. In that sense, we hope to reimagine and redefine its possibilities. Our goal is to create a dining experience that is unique and unforgettable.
Crab meat toast with XO sauce
Crispy sea cucumber with shrimp mousse
What is it like working with chef Siu Hin-chi?
Working with chef Siu is an incredibly rewarding experience. Our close partnership involves constant collaboration, brainstorming and experimentation to create the dishes at Jee. Chef Siu’s expertise and palate greatly influence the menu, and together, we refine flavours and presentation.
Do you have a favourite dish from Jee?
One dish that holds a special place in my heart is the softshell turtle jelly with caviar. As a devoted enthusiast of Cantonese cuisine, I am always eager to explore its refined interpretations. This particular dish beautifully embodies the traditional Cantonese emphasis on seafood, featuring softshell turtle jelly that has been double-boiled for 12 hours in a premium broth. What truly captivates me about this dish is its correlation with my pursuit of sustainability practices. We ensure that every ingredient is utilised efficiently as a way of promoting responsible practices by minimising waste. This approach not only adds a delightful twist to Cantonese cuisine but also resonates with my values.
Softshell turtle jelly with caviar
What is one thing that many people do not know about you?
Not many people are aware that I began my culinary journey in Cantonese cuisine. Through various connections I made with chefs working in different hotels at that time, I had the opportunity to broaden my culinary horizons and delve into the realms of Western food and fine dining. It is interesting how life has come full circle, as I find myself returning to my roots and embracing my initial passion for Cantonese cuisine once again.
Who has been the biggest influence on you professionally to date?
I am unable to name a specific person, but I would say that the biggest influence on me professionally has been the first Michelin-starred restaurant I worked at, L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Hong Kong. The experience of working there taught me the significance of attention to detail and upholding high standards. It was there that I made the transition from preparing Western cuisine to the intricate realm of fine dining. The lessons and skills I acquired during my time there still continuously resonate with me and shape my professional journey.
Which book do you think every chef should read?
Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavour by Hervé This. This book delves deeply into the origin of food and explores the scientific principles behind cooking techniques and flavour combinations. I really admire Hervé This for offering insights into the chemistry and physics of cooking, allowing chefs like me to understand the underlying processes that occur during food preparation. The book inspires me to elevate my creativity through the exploration of diverse techniques and ingredients.
Which chef would you most like to cook with—dead or alive?
I would like to cook with chef Pierre Gagnaire. I respect his innovative approach to cooking, where he takes a single ingredient and transforms it in multiple ways to create an extraordinary culinary experience. His dedication to pushing boundaries and his modesty in the kitchen are truly inspiring. Despite his accomplishments, Pierre remains grounded and continues to work actively in the culinary world. It would be beyond my privilege to collaborate with him in the kitchen, learn from his expertise and witness his creative process firsthand.
What is the one ingredient you can’t live without?
I can’t live without a good stock base. A flavourful and well-made stock serves as the foundation for many dishes, adding an essential layer of flavour that elevates the overall taste of a dish. I believe that it is a versatile ingredient that forms the backbone of countless recipes and is essential in creating delicious sauces, soups, stews and braises.
What is the best restaurant you have ever eaten at?
Restaurant David Toutain in Paris. Each dish I experienced there was a delightful surprise, with unexpected flavours and exciting combinations. The culinary creations surpassed my expectations, as I discovered new and extraordinary flavours from ingredients that I never thought could produce such amazing tastes. Plus, I hold high regard towards chef David’s innovative concept of nature-inspired cuisine and his commitment to sustainability, which is evident in every aspect of his culinary philosophy.
What is your favourite food city or foodie travel destination?
Fukuoka in Japan. This city’s vibrant food culture never fails to captivate me. I am particularly enamoured with the abundance of fresh vegetables and fruits, such as strawberries renowned for their unparalleled sweetness and quality. Fukuoka is also celebrated for its oysters, sourced locally and presented in a multitude of preparations. My previous work experience allowed me to visit the farms in Fukuoka, where I witnessed firsthand the meticulous cultivation of these fresh ingredients within the immaculate arrangements of the farms.
It’s your last meal—what’s on the menu?
I would choose a heartfelt home-cooked meal prepared by my mom, featuring traditional Hakka cuisine. As an original descendant of the Hakka people, I have a deep appreciation for the flavours and techniques that characterise this cuisine. Each dish from this cuisine holds sentimental value to me as it reminds me of my heritage and the comforting meals shared with my family.
Crispy silky fowl with Moutai
NOW READ
Culinary heritage vs modernity: How five Asian chefs use innovation to keep their traditions alive
Hong Kong’s newest restaurants & bars to visit in July 2024
Anne-Sophie Pic on the alchemy of aroma and her appreciation for Asia