London-based fashion house Self-Portrait has launched an innovative Residency Programme, with celebrated designer Christopher Kane as its inaugural resident. The initiative, housed in the brand’s Harella House headquarters, marks an innovative departure from conventional fashion collaborations, offering a fresh perspective on creative partnerships.
The programme, conceived by Self-Portrait’s founder Han Chong, aims to create a design hub where artists can experiment and innovate freely, supported by the brand’s infrastructure and global reach. “My ambition for Self-Portrait has always been to create an inclusive brand, one that empowers with every interaction, and one that focuses on community over competition,” Chong explained in the announcement of the programme launch.Read more: Can the fashion industry keep up with Han Chong?Chong tapped fellow London-based designer Christopher Kane as Self-Portrait’s first designer-in-residence. Kane, who made a name for himself in 2006 at the age of 23, emerged as one of London’s most original talents through his modern take on femininity. But since he shuttered his label last year, the fashion world has been eagerly awaiting his next creative move.
For Kane, this collaboration presents an opportunity to revisit and reimagine his groundbreaking spring-summer 2007 collection—the Central Saint Martins graduate collection that catapulted him into the spotlight. The fashion world loves a comeback and a good archive moment—look at how H&M is curating pre-owned pieces from the first 20 years of its designer collaborations this year. The tribute couldn’t be more timely, especially with the designer himself reinventing the moment to make it even more fashion-forward.In an exclusive email interview with Tatler, Kane discussed the inspiration behind the collection, his vision for the collaborative initiatives, and what “London-ness” means to him.
Christopher Kane attends the Bolívar at Annabel’s press preview party on May 8, 2024 in London, England. (Photo by Dave Benett/Getty Images for Annabel’s)
What led you to the Self-Portrait Residency Programme?Han reached out to meet; I was intrigued. We met in his office and clicked immediately. I am very honoured to be asked, and working together has been a joy.
The residency offers chosen designers the support of Self-Portrait’s resources and infrastructure—but can we expect to see signature Christopher Kane looks in the collection too?The collection is actually all Christopher Kane—specifically my inaugural spring-summer 2007 [SS07] debut collection. This collection launched me from being a Central St Martins student straight into high fashion. The collection has so much potential still and holds the DNA to my brand codes. It was recently named by Vogue US as one of the most influential fashion shows of all time.
We both [Kane and Chong] agreed that this collection looked modern then, and even more so now. That is what intrigued me about the brief: Han was very specific; he didn’t want it to be like a conventional collaboration. He wants to merge my world and his together, albeit with my signature designs from that first show. That said, we do share a liking for lace, embellishment and hyper-femininity.
Fitting images of from Christopher Kane’s iPhone for his collaboration with Self-Portrait, shot in Harella House, London
A look from Christopher Kane’s residency collection for Self-Portrait (Photo courtesy of Christopher Kane)
Tell us about the experience of working with Chong and the Self-Portrait team at Harella House. The creative process has been made very easy by Han and his wonderful team. The designs are not the easiest to decipher and yet the atelier managed to produce the prototypes successfully. I was very impressed. Overall, it has been a joyous experience; everyone made me feel very welcome. Harella House has very a friendly atmosphere, with many of the team having their dogs at work, which I loved. Can you give us a sneak peek of your personal favourite looks from the collection?I dread this question, as I love everything. I found this pic on my phone—it was from the second fitting. It was so funny—the dog loves pink!
A look from Christopher Kane’s residency collection for Self-Portrait (Photo courtesy of Christopher Kane)
And I do love this baby pink stretch catsuit; it reminds me of iconic photo of Jerry Hall at Studio 54 when she wore the see-through black lace catsuit. It is so wrong, it’s right. The cut-outs remind me of stretched bubblegum—they carry the SS07 nuances while breaking into new territory; I wanted the collection to nod to SS07, while also looking forward.
Details from Christopher Kane’s residency collection for Self-Portrait (Photo courtesy of Christopher Kane)
You have long been associated with the British capital. What does “London-ness” mean to you? London-ness, for me, isn’t something tangible—it’s an energy, a vibe. It’s that unique blend of cool and sexy, with confidence being the secret ingredient to pulling it off.
Both you and Chong are creative forces who celebrate femininity and modern design—are there similarities in your aesthetics or design philosophies? Han and I do share some similarities in our design philosophies; we’re both passionate about empowering women through our work. We also have a mutual love for elements like lace, embellishments and colour. However, I’d say my aesthetic tends to be edgier, with a touch more provocation than Han’s.
How has the London scene for young design talents evolved over the past 20 years? And what resources do independent designers need in London and globally today? It has certainly evolved since I graduated in 2006, with social media being the catalyst. It allows young design talents a ready-made platform to show the world their work, and even sell it. Independent designers need support in the usual tricky parts of the business: supply chain, access to manufacturing, competitive pricing, logistics, access to buyers, legal support, cashflow management … the list goes on. More often than not, a creative person finds these key functions challenging. It can be a lot to deal with when the calendar is so demanding.
Christopher Kane Spring-Summer 2007 collection (Photo by Cathal McNaughton - PA Images/PA Images via Getty Images)
Christopher Kane Spring-Summer 2007 collection (Photo by Cathal McNaughton - PA Images/PA Images via Getty Images)
How important are community and collaboration in today’s fashion industry, and how does that align with your vision for collaborative design initiatives? I think community is very important—not just in fashion but in daily life. I closed my studio last year and it has been so heart-warming to receive so many messages of support.
I was very happy to work with Han as it felt like a return to fashion, albeit in a slower pace, which was just what I needed. I am all for collaboration; I think if you get on with the person and there is respect there, it can be a very satisfying thing to do. I have enjoyed this process thoroughly and look forward to presenting the SS07 collection through a new lens and on Han’s Self-Portrait global platform.
Ahead of the launch, who are you most excited to see wearing pieces from this collection? That would be telling at this stage, as there is someone who I cannot wait to appear in the campaign. That said, I am looking forward to seeing our customers buy the collection; that is always the most thrilling part. I just love to walk into a room and find someone wearing one of my pieces.
A look from Christopher Kane’s residency collection for Self-Portrait (Photo courtesy of Christopher Kane)
A look from Christopher Kane’s residency collection for Self-Portrait (Photo courtesy of Christopher Kane)
Looking ahead, what are your personal and professional goals for the next few years? Personally, my goal is to cultivate more patience with myself as I plan the next phase of my career for Christopher Kane and More Joy.
Professionally, I am always driven by the pursuit of design excellence: there is nothing like creating something original. This is when I feel the most powerful. However, this collaboration has been very inspiring from a commercial point of view—I have learnt so much from Han and his team.
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