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Il Ristorante Tokyo at fifteen: Luca Fantin’s blend of Italian heritage and Japanese precision

Tatler Hong Kong
更新於 2024年11月05日03:42 • 發布於 2024年11月05日03:00 • Fontaine Cheng

Located inside the sleek Bvlgari Ginza Tower in Tokyo, I found myself tasting something I hadn’t expected to encounter in Japan: a dining experience that felt as though the spirit of Italy’s rolling hills and sunlit markets had somehow been distilled into Tokyo’s urbane elegance.

At Il Ristorante - Luca Fantin, Italian warmth melds with Japanese restraint, each dish a bridge between two worlds. Here, Luca Fantin—a chef from Treviso in Italy’s Veneto region, acclaimed for his impeccable Italian cooking—has spent fifteen years refining a cuisine that, while unmistakably Italian, is subtly enhanced by Japanese sensibilities.

Il Ristorante - Luca Fantin is located on the ninth floor of the Bvlgari Tower in Ginza
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Il Ristorante - Luca Fantin is located on the ninth floor of the Bvlgari Tower in Ginza

Luca Fantin has spent the past 15 years refining his Italian cuisine

Luca Fantin has spent the past 15 years refining his Italian cuisine

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Fantin’s journey to Tokyo was rooted in classical Italian training, honed in Europe’s finest kitchens, from Cracco in Milan to Mugaritz in Spain. Yet Japan presented him with new discoveries. “One of my greatest challenges has been finding the perfect balance between traditional Italian and Japanese ingredients. Upon arriving in Japan, I had to learn how to fully appreciate the uniqueness of local produce and adjust my culinary approach without compromising the essence of Italian cuisine,” he shares.

“It was difficult to navigate cultural nuances in dining preferences while staying true to my culinary vision. Over the years, I’ve also faced handling the task of constant innovation—remaining relevant and creative, especially with evolving food trends, while at the same time maintaining the consistency of the restaurant’s philosophy and quality”. Fantin’s work reflects this balance, a dialogue between tradition and transformation.

Sea urchin “Essence of Tomato”
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Sea urchin “Essence of Tomato”

Fantin crafted an anniversary menu to mark fifteen years in Tokyo featuring signature dishes from his journey. Among the highlights was a simple yet striking dish of sea urchin with tomatoes, which Fantin describes as an example of his philosophy to “eliminate unnecessary complexity”.

Another standout was his risotto, infused with Japanese horse mackerel and Manganji chilli pepper, with each grain bearing the taste of the local terroir. “Initially, my approach was deeply rooted in Italian traditions. The essence of Italian cuisine lies in using locally grown, seasonal ingredients that reflect the unique character of a particular region,” Fantin explains. “That principle has remained unchanged. Over time, however, I have come to deeply understand the delicate transitions of Japan’s seasons and developed an even greater respect for each individual ingredient”.

Fantin’s approach makes the most of ingredients from both cultures

Fantin’s approach makes the most of ingredients from both cultures

Fantin’s take on venison from Hokkaido, slow-cooked in red wine and grapes, offers a unique reinterpretation of Italian stew infused with the delicacy of Japanese ingredients. “As a result, my philosophy has evolved to pursue ‘simplicity’… highlighting the pure essence of each element. I have embraced the belief that less is more, with the goal of reaching each ingredient's fullest potential with minimal intervention,” he says.

This approach, anchored in respect for ingredients from both cultures, creates a dining experience that feels grounded and expansive.

Ravioli, pumpkin and Parmigiano Reggiano

Ravioli, pumpkin and Parmigiano Reggiano

Fish, pescatora and crab

Fish, pescatora and crab

Fantin’s philosophy isn’t limited to Tokyo; it thrives in Bali’s Bvlgari Resort, where chef Alessandro Mazzali—a fellow Italian from Pavia with a background in Italian fine dining—carries the torch. In Bali, Mazzali draws on local flavours, cultivating a garden filled with aromatic plants, herbs, vegetables and edible flowers that add vibrance and freshness to the menu.

“Luca’s philosophy is to get involved with and inspired by local products, using them to create our contemporary Italian cuisine. I believe that in Bali we are succeeding in this, maintaining an Italian style while utilising only the best that the island has to offer,” Mazzali explains. “We have also created a Chef's Garden at the back of our restaurant. This initiative not only supports our commitment to sustainability but also fills us with pride, as we can offer our customers ingredients that we grow ourselves. It truly enhances the connection between our dishes and the land they come from”.

Alessandro Mazzali at Il Ristorante - Luca Fantin in Bali

Alessandro Mazzali at Il Ristorante - Luca Fantin in Bali

Mazzali interprets Fantin’s philosophy and makes use of local flavours in Bali

Mazzali interprets Fantin’s philosophy and makes use of local flavours in Bali

Fantin’s anniversary menu feels like more than just a celebration; it’s a culmination of years of growth, adaptation and unwavering curiosity. Each ingredient—from Japanese seaweed to Italian truffles—was chosen not just for its flavour but for its power to bring out the best in its counterparts.

“This 15th-anniversary menu is the result of carefully selecting ten dishes from hundreds of menus and ingredients that I’ve created and worked with over the years,” Fantin shares. “Each dish in the course holds a special meaning to me, representing different moments in my culinary journey. Every element reflects an important chapter, whether it’s a memory, inspiration or achievement”.

Rather than highlighting just one dish, the entire menu embodies the essence of my fifteen-year journey.

By - Luca Fantin

Il Ristorante - Luca Fantin in Tokyo

Il Ristorante - Luca Fantin in Tokyo

Il Ristorante - Luca Fantin has, over the years, become more than just a destination for fine dining. It’s now a place where two culinary cultures meet in perfect balance, where flavours and textures merge in a way that feels organic yet refined. The milestone menu captures Fantin’s philosophy at its core, showcasing a fifteen-year exploration of how Italian heritage and Japanese precision can, together, create something utterly unique.

Il Ristorante - Luca Fantin (Tokyo)Address: 9/F, Bvlgari Ginza Tower, 2-7-12 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, 104-0061, Japan

Il Ristorante - Luca Fantin (Bali)Address: Bvlgari Resort Bali, Banjar Dinas Kangin, Jalan Goa Lempeh, Bali 80364, Indonesia

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