Pascale Lepeu, the director of The Cartier Collection, brings a wealth of insight into the world of haute joaillerie at Cartier’s latest exhibition in Shanghai.
Speaking from the Shanghai Museum East, where the exhibition “Cartier, the Power of Magic” showcases over 300 masterpieces until February 17, 2025, Lepeu reflects on the intersection of artistry, heritage and innovation that defines the maison’s legacy.
The exhibition, marking 20 years since Cartier’s first show in Shanghai, represents a significant milestone in the cultural dialogue between East and West. Under Lepeu’s curatorial vision, the show displays traditional Chinese artistry with contemporary presentation methods, including AI-generated scenography by renowned artist Cai Guo Qiang.
This landmark exhibition not only celebrates six decades of Franco-Chinese diplomatic relations but also illuminates the profound influence of Chinese culture on Cartier’s distinctive aesthetic vocabulary. Through carefully selected pieces from the Cartier Collection and global museums, Lepeu orchestrates a narrative that transcends mere jewellery display, creating an immersive journey through time and artistic innovation.
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Pacale Lepeu is the director of The Cartier Collection (Photo: courtesy of Cartier)
Which three pieces from the exhibition are most significant for you?
One piece that stands out is the Panther on Sapphire. Working on this exhibition revealed a new dimension to the Panther symbol—it represents protection, much like a dragon [does]. And in this particular jewel, she’s on top of the Earth, protecting it. Another [example] I loved is the two Jade clocks. These extraordinary creations are unique and represent a cultural exchange between east and west. Originally used by scholars to inspire creativity, they evoke a sense of dreaming when viewed.
The third piece, and one of the most striking for me is the snake. Also relevant for the Year of the Snake, [it showcases] the magic of Cartier. It looks so real. [Actress] Gong Li has a special bond with this piece; she called it Meimei [“little sister” in Mandarin], which shows you the deep connections people form with jewellery.
What makes high jewellery worthy of being celebrated as an heirloom? And how do you see its significance evolving over generations?
High jewellery is inherently personal and often becomes part of family history. When you see a jewel passed down from your grandmother to your mother and then to you, it creates a tradition that binds generations. Jewellery tends to stay within families, unlike other art forms that may be donated to museums. Jewels can even serve practical purposes; they can help individuals start anew in difficult times. This connection to personal history and sentimentality ensures that jewellery will always hold significance.
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Cartier Panther clip brooch, Cartier Paris 1949 (Photo: courtesy of Cartier)
Your exhibition centres around magic. How do you interpret magic in relation to jewellery? What makes a piece magical for you?
Magic in jewellery is about the emotions it evokes—confidence, joy and pride in craftsmanship. When you wear or view a piece, it transports you into another world; for example, wearing a tiara can transform your identity instantly. Jewellery has evolved into an art form thanks to figures like [prominent 1930s French socialite] Daisy Fellows and the Duchess of Windsor [Wallis Simpson], who raised its status beyond mere material value to one that embodies artistry and emotional resonance.
How has collaborating with artists and incorporating AI into your exhibitions changed the visitor experience?
This collaboration with [exhibition scenographer Cai Guo Qiang] has been groundbreaking for us. While we haven’t used AI to create jewellery itself, integrating it into our exhibitions has enhanced the sensory experience for visitors. The soundscapes created alongside visual displays immerse attendees in a unique environment that feels like walking through a garden.
How do you envision balancing tradition with modernity in future collections and exhibitions?The balance between tradition and modernity often arises from collaborative encounters with artists and curators. While future exhibitions may not lean heavily towards futurism, they will continue to honour our legacy while exploring new themes and ideas through partnerships with museums.
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