Renaud Fillioux de Gironde is a man on a mission. And that mission is to convince everyone that cognac is not a serious drink, instead, it can be a fun, joyful drink you can experiment with any way you like. In that vein, the eighth-generation master blender of house Hennessy recently flew to Hong Kong from Cognac, France, for a special tasting at Man Wah, Mandarin Oriental, which paired four vibrant Hennessy offerings with Chinese cuisine. And by pairing, we don’t mean just an elevated form of “sip and eat”. During one of the courses, Gironde had us pour the cognac into a yellow fungus and sea conch soup to see how the umami flavours of the soup contrasted with the rich sweetness of the cognac.
Tatler sat down with Gironde after this satisfying and rather boozy meal to chat about cognac, the legacy of eight generations—and the importance of balancing heritage with innovation.
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During lunch, you mentioned how consistency is key to your role. How do you balance the need for consistency with the urge to innovate?Maintaining consistency in the quality of our products requires constant innovation, as the environment around us is always changing. Climate change, for instance, necessitates developing solutions to protect our grapes and overall production.
While many believe constant innovation is essential, it’s important to remember that just because an idea is new, it doesn’t necessarily make it better. For me, true innovation is all about meaningful benefits. It can occur in various areas, such as grape growing, winemaking, distillation, and even packaging. The key is to identify the right innovations that genuinely enhance our processes rather than innovating for the sake of it.
That’s so true. Is there any recent innovation that you implemented that you are proud of?We have recently made changes to the space where we store our barrels. It used to be a smaller space just a few years ago, now we can store up to 13,000 barrels in the same space. But we have not only expanded the facilities, but we have also improved the insulation in the cellar. Through a lot of research, we’ve gained a better understanding of the airflow within the cellar, which has enhanced our storage conditions. So, we have a bigger, but more importantly a better, cellar for our wines.
Hennessy Paradis is harmony in a bottle, according to Renaud Fillioux de Gironde
While evolving the cognac-making process, how do you stay true to Hennessy’s more than 250 years of history?It’s a combination of factors, especially as conditions change. For example, with shifting weather patterns, we are now harvesting earlier. At the same time, the technology that we use for harvesting has also improved. It’s about finding the right balance, and while we may not always know if our decisions are correct, we are constantly adapting.
Starting with the grapes, we can’t make pre-determined decisions because everything depends on the climate and various other factors. So, we have to be flexible. Having the right people with the necessary knowledge and a mindset to explore solutions helps us to adapt effectively. However, this process is never static; it will always evolve.
Speaking of shifting weather patterns and climate change, what sustainability measures have Hennessy taken over the years?It’s a topic we take very seriously. There are things to be done in the short and long terms. Because the weather is getting warmer and warmer, the harvesting season is coming up earlier with every passing year. So, one of our short-term measures is to build a shade to protect the grapes from the sun. For the longer term, we are researching new varieties of grapes that are better suited to warmer climes. We have started this process already because we don’t want to wait for trouble, we want to find the solution now. One of my favourite sustainability initiatives is that we are planting trees in the vineyard to bring biodiversity to the ecosystem. More trees mean more birds, more animals and more benefits for the whole ecosystem of the vineyards.
Hennessy Paradis cognac displayed inside Man Wah, Mandarin Oriental
There is a notion that cognac is a serious drink meant for special occasions. Do you agree with it, or would you want to encourage people to try it in different ways?Cognac is such a versatile drink and there are so many fun ways to have it. Just now, we had such a nice pairing of cognac and Chinese cuisine, we even poured a little bit of cognac into the yellow fungus soup to bring out the flavours. I would say cognac works amazingly well as a highball too. Don’t keep it for a special occasion, make the occasion special by drinking cognac in whichever way you like to. As I say to my kids, don’t give up on a food item without trying it. I say the same about cognac, don’t give up on its fun factor without trying it.
We had four fabulous Hennessy drinks during lunch today, the Hennessy Master Blender Selection No. 5, Hennessy XO, Hennessy Paradis and Richard Hennessy. Could you tell us a bit more about each cognac?I went totally creative while mixing and matching the eaux-de-vie for Hennessy Master Blender Selection No. 5. The result is a smooth, chocolatey, toffee-flavoured drink that also pays homage to the artisans who are involved in the selection process.
The second drink we tasted today was Hennessy XO, our oldest cognac. It has existed since 1870, and to me, it has a special meaning as it’s a tangible link to my ancestors. Whether you have it neat or on the rocks, it’s an iconic cognac.
Hennessy Paradis is harmony in a bottle. It’s full-bodied, mature, yet extremely fresh.
The Richard Hennessy, meanwhile, is a drink of extreme complexity. It’s long-lasting, unapologetically intense, and really draws you in with every sip.
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