At Watches and Wonders this year, Hermès launched its first grand complication, the Arceau Duc Attelé, to raised eyebrows and nods of approval among watch enthusiasts and collectors alike. This exquisite timepiece not only pays homage to the brand’s equestrian heritage but also showcases a remarkable blend of artistry and technical innovation.
With its intricate triple-axis tourbillon and a unique minute repeater mechanism, the Arceau Duc Attelé stands out as Hermès’s way of pushing the boundaries of horology while maintaining its signature elegance.
Join Tatler as we explore the creative process behind this remarkable watch through an insightful chat with Philippe Delhotal, the Creative Director at Hermès Horloger.
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Caseback of the Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé (Photo: courtesy of Hermès)
Side view of the case (Photo: courtesy of Hermès)
Can you share the creative process behind the new grand complication launched at Watches and Wonders, the Arceau Duc Attelé watch?
The creative process at Hermès involves interpreting existing watchmaking functions in our own unique way. For example, with models like Arceau L’heure de la Lune and Le Temps Voyageur, which feature the moonphase and travelling times [complications] respectively, we took traditional complications and gave them a distinct Hermès twist.
How long did it take, from concept to production, to develop the Arceau Duc Attelé?
Around three and a half years. Achieving the high, 5Hz precision for the minute repeater mechanism was a major technical challenge that required numerous iterations and tests.
The Arceau Duc Attelé is noted for the distinctive sound of its minute repeater; what was the inspiration for it?
At Hermès, we view sound as a creative element, just like colour or shape. We wanted to create a pleasant, unique sound that would be an integral part of the watch’s identity. We’re not in competition [with other brands]; we did not just want to make a minute repeater. That’s not our [goal]—our objective is to make our customers dream; it’s to make them emotional; it’s to make beautiful things. And [in that regard,] we’re very happy.
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The minute repeater is designed to carry the Hermès DNA (Photo: courtesy of Hermès)
The triple axis tourbillon takes centre stage in this Hermès creation (Photo: courtesy of Hermès)
Caseback of the Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé (Photo: courtesy of Hermès)
Hermès’s first grand complication (Photo: courtesy of Hermès)
How did your personal musical background influence the watch’s final sound?
I was a poor musician, but I grew up in a family surrounded by music. I always loved music— it’s maybe one of the reasons I worked as a watchmaker. Growing up, I played the clarinet while my brother played the violin, so he used a tuning fork a lot. As a former musician, I have a keen ear for music and a personal preference for certain tonal qualities. This allowed me to play a direct role in selecting the final sound of the minute repeater, ensuring it aligned with my own musical sensibilities.
How did the materials you used contribute to that sound?
Titanium was chosen for its superior resonance properties, helping to transmit the vibrations of the minute repeater mechanism to the case. The use of different metals like gold and pink gold also contributes to the unique tonal quality we were aiming for.
You incorporated the tuning fork into the design of the minute repeater mechanism of the Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé. Tell us about that.
We took the classic U-shape of a tuning fork and wrapped it around the entire watch, creating a novel approach that generated a softer, more melodious sound compared to traditional minute repeaters. It was a challenging process to get the length and thickness of the tuning fork just right [for Delhotal’s likes].
How do you balance preserving iconic Hermès watch designs with innovating for modern consumers?
We have always stayed true to the original design created by Henri d’Origny in 1978, respecting his vision while subtly evolving the watches to remain relevant for today’s customers. The core aesthetic has remained unchanged, but we’ve refined the details and functionality within that iconic framework.
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