Fed Tan’s journey into the world of watches began in his childhood in the Philippines, where he was born and raised in a Chinese family. Today, he is well known as the founder of the media and communications firm Advisory Council, which deals with fashion and luxury goods including watches, but his initial fascination with horology was sparked by a timepiece belonging to his father. “I wouldn’t say that my family was into watches or anything,” he recalls, “but I would say when I was growing up, I just remember my dad had this Cartier Tank watch that I always kept seeing and then I ended up breaking it.” Little did he know, this early encounter would lead to a lifelong passion for horology.
After studying at New York University, Tan moved to Hong Kong in 2001, where he met a man who would become one of his closest friends and watch advisor: Carson Chan. “Carson is one of the big fish in the watch industry,” Tan explains. “He was my entryway into the watch world.” However, it wasn’t until Tan got married in 2008 that he made his first significant purchase, with Chan’s help—a Rolex Submariner “Kermit”. “That was sort of like the wedding watch from me to me,” he says, “and I would say that was my first significant purchase in terms of a proper timepiece.” This love for vintage Rolexes would lead to his 2010 purchase of the humble 1016, another favourite in his collection. “I love the idea of owning a watch that has been through so much,” he says. “It’s like owning a piece of history.”
Vintage Rolex Explorer 1016; Rolex Submariner 5512, which Tan refers to as his “worst best investment” (Photo: courtesy of Zed Leets)
While that first Rolex marked a milestone in his journey of vintage watch acquisitions, buying an IWC Pilot’s ceramic watch in 2010 led to a critical realisation as to what he should invest in, in the future. “I actually bought it on the secondary market,” Tan says. “I even paid quite a high price for it.” However, after realising the watch was too big for his wrist, he found himself disconnected from it. “I felt like there was no more emotional connection. All I could think about was how I bought a watch and I paid too much for [something] I don’t wear.” This led him to trade the IWC for a Nautilus 3800 at Watchbox [now The 1916 Company] in 2017, which began his friendship with the company and its team. “It ended up becoming a very favourable trade for me,” he says.
Tan’s most worn watch is his vintage Rolex 5512. Acquired in 2018, he affectionately refers to it as his “worst best investment”. It has become a staple in his collection; the piece he reaches for whenever he’s unsure what to put on. “It’s the one I wear all the time,” he explains, because “it will go with anything”. And despite the fact that he overpaid for it at the time, Tan values the emotional connection he has with it. “It’s the best watch for me,” he says, highlighting its versatility and the comfort it brings him.
FP Journe Élégante Titalyt (Photo: courtesy of Tatler Hong Kong/Zed Leets)
Another favourite? His Audemars Piguet 5402ST B Series, which he acquired in 2019 in something of a serendipitous event: he discovered it “in a random store in Shinjuku, Tokyo, tucked away on a back shelf ”. After taking the watch for servicing and authentication at Audemars Piguet, he learned that it was “a birth year watch”. (When Tatler asked what that year is, he teased, “Take a guess—I’m a vintage model.”) Tan would lend the piece to AP in 2022 for the Royal Oak 50th anniversary exhibition in Hong Kong.
Another interesting vintage watch from his birth year is the Vacheron Constantin Reference 42001 that he bought this year on his visit to Mark Cho’s Pedder Building boutique The Armoury, where some of the coolest vintage Vacherons were on tour from the brand’s headquarters. Although he already owned a modern 222, his interest was piqued when he encountered this pre-222 model. “I made an inquiry via their Les Collectionneurs programme [which renews some of the brand’s rarest vintage models in limited editions] and I was told that they had one which was currently exhibited in Bangkok. But eventually, it was sold. A few months later, Vacheron found one for me in excellent condition and with full paperwork.”
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5165A-001; Patek Philippe Nautilus 5800/1A circa 2006 (Photo: courtesy of Zed Leets)
As a vintage watch fan, Tan places a high value on authenticity and originality; but he is also driven by a keen focus on specific details. “Like most vintage watch nerds, I have a certain obsession with co-signed dials, like the ‘Beyer’ stamp on my [Patek Philippe] Nautilus 3700,” which makes it unique. And while he prefers watch sizes between 36mm and 39mm, he does own larger pieces, such as the Overseas Everest 42mm. “I’m not interested in buying a watch just because it’s a trend or because everyone else has one,” he explains. “I want to buy watches that speak to me on a personal level; that have a story behind them.”
This philosophy has led him to look beyond vintage classics and explore more independent brands like FP Journe, De Bethune and H Moser & Cie. Tan’s curation took a significant turn as he began to explore titanium watches, a metal that has only become a norm in the watch world since the late 1990s or early 2000s. “There’s something about this metal that I just can’t resist,” he says. His titanium collection includes pieces from brands like Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin and Grand Seiko, but his first titanium—and independent modern brand—piece was the FP Journe Élégante Titalyt, which he purchased at retail in January 2020 while in Paris with a friend. “I distinctly remember, I walked into the FP Journe boutique with a buddy of mine. I picked up a Titalyt at retail, back when they were easily available. That same year, I got the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Everest, which was also in titanium.”
De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius (Photo: courtesy of Tatler Hong Kong/Zed Leets)
The De Bethune DB 25 Starry Varius—another titanium piece—with its futuristic aesthetic represents a different facet of his collection. “The finish on this watch is just incredible,” he says. “It’s a true example of the craftsmanship of the brand.”
For Tan, the hunt for the perfect watch is half the fun. “I love the process of researching a brand, learning about its history and its innovations,” he says. “It’s like solving a puzzle and, when you finally find the watch that fits you, it’s an incredible feeling.” He says it is important to “feel it out” when researching a watch. “Firstly, pick up the watch, see if you’re comfortable with the size or the mechanics of iit,” he suggests. “[Imagine] you’re wearing the watch, then you’re with your buddies and they are dismissive of it … would you be able to confidently say, ‘Oh, I like this watch’, or are you just buying the watch to get a reaction from people?” He believes that “Ultimately, you’re buying an object, you’re not buying a theory. So understand why you want that watch.”
As for advice for new collectors: “Invest in what you love. If you’re gonna buy one or two watches, just buy a Rolex,” he suggests. “Even though everybody else has it, I would still recommend you get a Rolex.”
Whether it’s the thrill of the hunt or the satisfaction of adding a new piece to his collection, Tan’s passion for watches is undeniable and something he knows will be a lifelong pursuit. “There’s always something new to discover, always a new challenge to take on,” he says. “And that’s what keeps me coming back, day after day, year after year.”
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