Chanel has introduced the Haute Joaillerie Sport collection, designed by Patrice Leguéreau, the director of its fine jewellery creation studio. This collection seamlessly blends elegance and athleticism as a tribute to the sporty essence integral to the French luxury house's legacy.
Gabrielle Chanel, the visionary behind the brand, was renowned for her commitment to body awareness and freedom of movement. Her designs, characterised by a sporty allure, revolutionised fashion by combining comfort with sophistication. This sporty spirit was evident as early as 1921 when she established a “Sport” atelier within her haute couture house. Drawing inspiration from this rich history, the Haute Joaillerie Sport collection celebrates elegant athleticism through meticulously crafted pieces.
Read more: From Bijoux de Diamants to Tweed de Chanel: A closer look at the Maison’s legacy of innovation
Graphic line necklace in white gold, platinum, diamonds, sapphire, rubies and onyx (Photo: courtesy of Chanel)
Graphic line earrings in white gold, platinum, diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and onyx (Photo: courtesy of Chanel)
Graphic line ring in white gold, platinum, diamonds, sapphire and onyx (Photo: courtesy of Chanel)
Graphic line ring in white gold, platinum, diamonds, sapphires and onyx (Photo: courtesy of Chanel)
Chanel print necklace in white gold, diamonds and black lacquer (Photo: courtesy of Chanel)
Chanel print earrings in white gold, diamonds and black lacquer (Photo: courtesy of Chanel)
Chanel print lion brooch in white gold, diamonds and black lacquer (Photo: courtesy of Chanel)
Chanel print cuff in white gold, diamonds, rubies, carbon, black lacquer and red aluminum (Photo: courtesy of Chanel)
The collection has a refined and streamlined aesthetic that reflects the body’s anatomy, similar to sportswear. The chevron motif, symbolising rhythm and speed, is prominently featured, along with tapered volumes and smooth contours. Several iconic Chanel symbols have been given a sporty twist. For example, the number 5 is presented in chronometer typography, a typeface often seen on stopwatches at race tracks. Additionally, the star motif, symbolising victory, is a prominent feature throughout the collection.
Notably, the Chanel logo appears for the first time in haute joaillerie, designed as an openwork imprint. Dynamic lines of colour infuse the pieces with energy, and the modular structure ensures they are light to wear.
The Haute Joaillerie Sport collection is both an aesthetic triumph and a technical marvel. “Sport cord”—a tube chain specially developed by Chanel—uses a rare technique in high jewellery, granting the creations unparalleled flexibility that allows the jewellery to lie softly and closely on the wearer's skin like a second skin.
Quilted stars ring in yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, yellow diamonds, ruby and onyx (Photo: courtesy of Chanel)
Quilted 5 ring in white gold, diamonds and red lacquer (Photo: courtesy of Chanel)
Sporty 5 necklace in white gold and diamonds (Photo: courtesy of Chanel)
Sporty 5 earrings in white gold and diamonds (Photo: courtesy of Chanel)
Sporty 5 ring in white gold and diamonds (Photo: courtesy of Chanel)
Sporty 5 black & white necklace in white gold, diamonds, red and black lacquer (Photo: courtesy of Chanel)
Sporty 5 collector brooch in white gold, yellow gold, diamonds, red and black lacquer (Photo: courtesy of Chanel)
Chanel has created an innovative connection system with graphic flat surfaces and quick-release fittings inspired by sports equipment. They’ve transformed these into clasps, along with functional yet fashionable elements such as a number 5-shaped karabiner and a swivel clasp inspired by the iconic 2.55 bag. The Chanel quilted motif has been reimagined in the style of openwork high-performance fabrics, morphing into a flexible mesh with sporty motifs. The pieces incorporate precious and high-tech materials like aluminium and carbon fibre to strike a balance between luxury and innovation.
The collection features a remarkable selection of gemstones, adding to its allure. Notably, five signature pieces, including a statement necklace, a pair of earrings, and two rings, are adorned with a set of five rare Kashmir sapphires. It took several years to complete this set, as the extreme rarity of the stones required extensive research and sourcing to ensure their unparalleled quality. The collection also employs two-tone and three-tone contrasts to accentuate coloured stones, with their shapes subtly enhancing the ergonomic aesthetic.
Combining elegance and performance with refined aesthetics, advanced techniques and gemstones, the collection leans into Chanel’s sporty side for the first time. And in doing so it stays true to its belief that a woman’s true allure lies in her freedom of movement.
READ MORE
Binge-watching ‘Bridgerton’ on Netflix? 6 things to know about Regency-era jewellery
4Cs of diamonds: How to understand diamond grades and choose the right kind of gem
Birthstone guide for June: How pearls can help foster virtues of purity, integrity and honesty