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Cook and conquer: How 3 Hong Kong chefs use fitness to enhance their culinary skills

Tatler Hong Kong
更新於 2024年07月04日03:41 • 發布於 2024年07月04日03:30 • Fontaine Cheng

The kitchen is a battlefield, and those who master it are warriors. For some chefs, the discipline, endurance and mental clarity required to excel in the culinary world are honed not only by their knives but also by their athletic pursuits, and three Hong Kong-based chefs have found that this provides the perfect counterbalance to the chaos of the kitchen. We explore how they incorporate physical activity into their daily routines, the challenges they face, and the invaluable lessons that sport has given them.

See also: Gordon Ramsay on making the most of every moment

Michael Smith, chef de cuisine, The Arcane Collective

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Running the extra mile

Michael Smith has embraced marathon running and Hyrox, a fitness competition combining running with functional fitness exercises. Smith’s foray into running began as a personal challenge. “The full marathon was something I always thought was so extreme; the thought of being able to run for 42km was nuts,” he says, “but I like setting goals that push me out of my comfort zone.” Despite the Standard Chartered Hong Kong Marathon being cancelled in 2022 due to the pandemic, Smith did not let this deter him. On the day it was meant to be held, he ran the 42km unofficially along the waterfront, though he admits, “Training for marathons alone can be mind-numbing and somewhat lonely. Running in an organised event is much more fun.”

The training for Hyrox, which Smith describes as “a mix of pure strength, HIIT [high-intensity interval training] and running”, is equally intense. “I love that it is so diverse,” he adds. His current regime means dedicating around ten to twelve hours a week, split over six days. “Taking a rest day is much harder than putting in the work. I love it though, and you have to if you want it to be sustainable. In many ways, my training is also my social life: I run with 26 Coaching, a local triathlon group, attend group classes at Crossfit Typhoon, and do one-on-one strength work at HIT [Personal Training]”.

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Smith finds solace and balance through his athletic endeavours, which is especially crucial in a high-pressure job. “It’s simple really. If you don’t have a way of blowing off steam, the pressure will get too much and take over. For many people, not just chefs, that could be alcohol or various other vices, as it was for me for many years. Once I got sober in 2018, I needed some new tools to deal with life. I chose sport.

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“In the past six years, so much has changed in my life. One thing led to another: from quitting booze to taking up sport, to losing weight, changing my diet and then bringing all of that into my kitchen.”

This dedication to fitness has not only transformed Smith’s physique but also his culinary approach. At Moxie, his cuisine is health-conscious and vegetable-centric, reflecting his commitment to a balanced lifestyle. “Cooking in a way that aligns with my life outside of the kitchen and that is authentic to me,” he says, is central to his philosophy. “I believe there is a responsibility for chefs, especially in our city where so many people eat out in restaurants, to serve nourishing food, not only delicious food.”

Reflecting on the similarities between mastering a sport and mastering the culinary arts, Smith offers some advice: “I certainly wouldn’t say I have mastered either, but being disciplined in whatever you do will take you far. Always remember that some people will be ahead of you in this field. Find those individuals—the ones you respect and set good examples of who you want to be—and ask for their help. Hire coaches if you can afford it, seek mentors and be accountable.”

Karys Plaxe, group pastry chef, Black Sheep Restaurants

Karys Plaxe at Prana Yoga in Wan Chai

Karys Plaxe at Prana Yoga in Wan Chai

Flexing in the kitchen

Karys Plaxe, who is usually in the kitchen baking cakes at Butter or crafting desserts at Gelato Messina, has found her zen through yoga. Introduced to the activity by friends seven years ago, Plaxe quickly became an enthusiast. “After one week, I was practising daily and haven’t stopped since,” she recalls. Recently, she added another skill to her repertoire by graduating as a yoga teacher.

Plaxe practises several times a week at Prana Yoga, and on days when she can’t make it to the studio, practises at home. Her sessions vary, from simple breathing exercises to intense routines, ensuring she stays centred no matter where she is.

Yoga has had a profound impact on Plaxe’s life and career. “It has been challenging, but so rewarding, to balance 200-plus hours of training in addition to work and my personal life,” she explains. “I plan to use this training to share yoga with a growing base of people, particularly in the F&B community.”

This pursuit has also brought about a physical and mental transformation. “I never thought that I would be able to do challenging postures like the One Leg Crow or Forearm Stand, but they are now very accessible. I love that yoga is a practice that I can adapt and continue throughout the future stages of my life.” On how yoga has kept her free from ailments, she adds, “It’s also helped me feel less sore and tired from work”.

The benefits spill into her professional life too. Not only has yoga “helped me feel less sore and tired from work”, it “has taught me so much about patience and calm, and that plays a big role in kitchen management. I have come to a better understanding about the unimportance of many things that would have caused me frustration in the past.”

Yoga’s beauty lies in its adaptability and accessibility, no matter where you are or how much time you have, Plaxe says. “It can meet you wherever you are. It can be restorative and calming or challenging and physically demanding. It’s a wonderful way to step out of the busyness of F&B and focus your mind.”

Chan Yau Leung, executive chef, Duddell’s

Chan Yau Leung at Bill Thai Boxing & Fitness in Wan Chai

Chan Yau Leung at Bill Thai Boxing & Fitness in Wan Chai

Culinary warrior

Chan Yau Leung of Duddell’s has been a dedicated practitioner of Chinese martial arts and combat sports for over 40 years. Inspired by Bruce Lee, he began his journey at the age of 13 with hung kuen, a southern Shaolin style characterised by strong stances, and has never looked back. This lifelong passion has endowed him with a resilience that has seamlessly worked its way into his culinary career.

“My most significant achievement would be having pursued this sport for so long,” says Chan. “And I have never given up on exploring and pushing my limits. I am also proud of my efforts in training and supporting successful boxers at Fu Tak Thai Boxing and Fitness.”

Every day, Chan dedicates 60 minutes to training, a ritual he believes is vital for his physical and mental well-being. “I reserve one hour every day for training or staying active alongside my full-time job as a chef,” he explains.

The discipline of martial arts has had a profound impact on Chan’s approach to his culinary craft. “Training in martial arts and combat sports involves repeated practice, exploration, improving from your mistakes and pursuing excellence. Similarly, these principles apply to the approach that I take in the kitchen,” he says.

For Chan, staying active is not just a hobby but a necessity. “I believe the inevitably demanding nature of being a chef means it is even more important to stay active and maintain a healthy lifestyle, to prolong the longevity of your career,” he says.

His advice for fellow chefs eyeing a sporting life is simple yet profound: “Perseverance is key to success.” Chan, with his life steeped in martial arts and a thriving culinary career, epitomises the perfect blend of discipline and passion, showing that whether you’re wielding a knife or throwing a punch, dedication makes all the difference.

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