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9 menswear trends at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, as seen on Louis Vuitton, Hermès and Dior runways

Tatler Hong Kong
更新於 06月27日03:02 • 發布於 06月25日07:23 • Judy Cui

Paris Men’s Fashion Week, which ran from June 18 to 23, punctuated the spring-summer 2025 season with several exciting looks and triumphant shows. The week opened with Louis Vuitton by creative director Pharrell Williams and ended with Dries Van Noten presenting his final show for his namesake label, and a total of 72 labels showcased their latest collections in just six days.

From the rising blokecore aesthetic to crochet and fishnet details, we examine nine trends from the last week from brands such as Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Rick Owens and more.

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Blokecore is back

Louis Vuitton spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Louis Vuitton)

Louis Vuitton spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Louis Vuitton)

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Prototypes spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: Instagram/@prototypes.ch)

Prototypes spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: Instagram/@prototypes.ch)

As the Paris Olympics approach, blokecore, the sports jersey-inspired style, is scoring big on Paris Men’s Fashion Week. Blokecore has seen wild popularity since the term was coined by TikTok blogger Brandon Huntly in late 2021. This season, Louis Vuitton is taking the style to an elegant yet street level with fewer stripes, softer colours and playful patterns. Of course, the classic iteration of blokecore hasn’t gone out of style just yet—Swiss label Prototypes opted for football jerseys with red and black stripes akin to team kits.

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Timeless black

Feng Chen Wang spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Feng Chen Wang)

Feng Chen Wang spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Feng Chen Wang)

Louis Gabriel Nouchi spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: Instagram/@louisgabrielnouchi)

Louis Gabriel Nouchi spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: Instagram/@louisgabrielnouchi)

Fashion will never be done with black, as underscored by this season’s runways in Paris Men’s Fashion Week. Louis Vuitton opened its show with 10 all-black outfits in a row, Kim Jones brought a host of black ensembles to Dior’s latest collection, and Chinese designer Feng Chen Wang wrapped up her eponymous brand show with head-to-toe black outfits that highlighted relaxed silhouettes and futuristic footwear.

Monochrome black looks can also embody sensuality, especially when contrasted with transparent elements and layering, as seen at Louis Gabriel Nouchi’s show which saw models evoking a cold-blooded killer aesthetic inspired by Patrick Süskind’s 1985 novel,Perfume: The Story of a Murderer.

Gymnastics glam

Wales Bonner spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Wales Bonner)

Wales Bonner spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Wales Bonner)

Rick Owens spring-summer 2025 (Photo: Getty Images)

Rick Owens spring-summer 2025 (Photo: Getty Images)

Rick Owens celebrated community and sporty chic in his knitted bodysuits that drew from elements of gymnastics attire. The trend was also spotted on Wales Bonner’s runway show, as its models donned drawstring short-shorts and retro T-shirts, evoking a sense of sportswear nostalgia.

Bomber jacket renaissance

Walter Van Beirendonck spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Walter Van Beirendonck)

Walter Van Beirendonck spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Walter Van Beirendonck)

AWGE spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of AWGE)

AWGE spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of AWGE)

Originating from military flight jackets worn by pilots in World War II, bomber jackets have remained evergreen in pop culture since the ’90s. This season at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, designers have infused the timeless piece with greater versatility and creativity.

For example, in Walter Van Beirendonck’s latest collection, the bomber jacket is presented with a touch of humour, playfulness, and an almost childlike aesthetic to showcase his theme for the season—clowns taking centre stage with polka dots galore. Meanwhile, the camouflage bomber jacket in A$AP Rocky’s debut show for AWGE, titled American Sabotage, reflects rap culture and political satire.

Crochet meets fishnet

Kenzo spring-summer 2025 (Photo: courtesy of Kenzo)

Kenzo spring-summer 2025 (Photo: courtesy of Kenzo)

System spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: Instagram/@systemofficial)

System spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: Instagram/@systemofficial)

Crochet, a classic option for spring and summer, has taken on a more rebellious tone this season by incorporating the fishnet element. The crochet fishnet sweater as seen at Kenzo’s show strikes a balance between cosiness and rebelliousness, while Korean brand System presents a subtler crochet fishnet cardigan that plays it safe.

Utilitarian vests

Soild Homme spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: Instagram/@solidhomme)

Soild Homme spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: Instagram/@solidhomme)

Prototypes spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: Instagram/@prototypes.ch)

Prototypes spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: Instagram/@prototypes.ch)

Vests have made a strong comeback in recent years, for example, suit vests and knit vests. This season saw Korean brand Solid Homme elevating the vest to a utilitarian level and introducing a silhouette perfect for trail running. Prototypes also brought a cargo vest to its runway, and when paired with shirts and hoodies, these vests blur the lines of urban and outdoor fashion.

Modern floral patterns

Isabel Marant spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Isabel Marant)

Isabel Marant spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Isabel Marant)

Hermès spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: Instagram/@hermes)

Hermès spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: Instagram/@hermes)

Brands such as Isabel Marant and Hermès introduced fresh floral patterns to infuse more romance into menswear. The simple, clean lines of flowers on the blazer by Hermès depicted a sense of elegance and freshness, while Isabel Marant created a retro and dreamy ambience with its delicate floral patterns.

Daily transparency

Bluemarble spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Umberto Fratini/Gorunway.com)

Bluemarble spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Umberto Fratini/Gorunway.com)

Yohji Yamamoto spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Yohji Yamamoto)

Yohji Yamamoto spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Yohji Yamamoto)

Transparent fabrics have been spotted more on menswear runways as gender fluidity has come into the limelight amid LGBTQ+ social movements, and now it is highlighted as a daily essential by brands such as Bluemarble and Yohji Yamamoto. No matter if it’s a vest over top of a casual tee, or a reinterpreted traditional dress shirt, it pushes the boundary of incorporating genderless style into menswear.

Refreshing red

Homme Plisse Issey Miyake spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet)

Homme Plisse Issey Miyake spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Frédérique Dumoulin-Bonnet)

Undercover spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch/Gorunway.com)

Undercover spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch/Gorunway.com)

Cherry, oxblood and burgundy were key colours for the autumn-winter 2024 collections shown in Milan and Paris, but red remains hot this season, and it’s even bolder now with brighter shades spotted at Paris Men’s Fashion Week. Japanese labels Homme Plisse Issey Miyake Jun Takahashi’s Undercover took different routes: the former instilled energy into practical wear with models sporting eye-catching red cape-like coats, while the latter exuded a glam rock edge with red jackets sans shirts, ’60s and ’70s inspired printed trousers and mesh face masks to boot.

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