This June, on one of his visits to Hong Kong to unveil the new Dragon Masterpieces from Chopard’s LUC Collection, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the co-president of the brand, shared his vision for its creations. The Dragon Masterpieces represent not just a continuation of the maison’s commitment to traditional craftsmanship but also a celebration of diverse cultures, particularly through the use of the traditional Japanese urushi lacquer technique.
In a dialogue with Tatler, Scheufele’s insights reveal a deep respect for the artistry involved in watchmaking and a passion for storytelling that is embedded in each piece.
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Chopard LUC Quattro Spirit 25 ‘Year of the Dragon’ (Photo: courtesy of Chopard)
The dragon watch completes the Urushi collection, Chopard’s range of timepieces featuring the Japanese urushi lacquer technique. What story did you want to tell through this piece?When we started the Urushi theme, over 12 years ago, we were the first, and are still more or less the only watch company who managed to collaborate with an urushi master for such a long time to create so many different pieces and items and subjects. We also persuaded him to make something small, because urushi items are normally bigger. We reduced the surface to the size of a dial, which is a great complication for any urushi master. The gentleman explained to us that this is really a performance challenge. We made a piece for the 10 Indian market with Lord Ganesh; it was the most complicated of the series. The last one in the series is the dragon.
How do you navigate cultural nuances when interpreting, say, Chinese themes through Swiss craftsmanship?Art is international and has no boundaries. We’ve found that pieces inspired by specific cultures, like our Japanese-themed Urushi watches, appeal to a global audience. The dragon collection, inspired by Chinese porcelain seen during a trip to Shanghai, has a similar universal appeal.
How do you balance innovation and tradition in your timepieces?We strive to respect tradition while innovating. For instance, our minute repeater has a very traditional movement, finished according to the Geneva Seal [certification], but it incorporates a total innovation, with crystal gongs connected to the glass for better sound. Similarly, our jumping hours watch uses four barrels, a patented innovation, but maintains a classical watchmaking finish.
Where do you find inspiration for your creations?
Inspiration rarely comes in the office. It’s often while travelling, being in the countryside or mountains—places with more oxygen flowing to my brain. I also find inspiration during time spent with our artisans and design team, though I can be impatient with the development process.
Chopard LUC Full Strike ‘Year of the Dragon’ (Photo: courtesy of Chopard)
Caseback of the Chopard LUC Full Strike ‘Year of the Dragon’ (Photo: courtesy of Chopard)
Can you share an example of a challenge you faced during the creation of this collection?We learnt that watch dials for enamel work need to be thicker than standard dials. This discovery meant we had to adjust the watch cases as well, which meant delays. Colour can also be challenging—for example, we made a series of beautiful ladies’ enamel watches with roses. So far, we’ve made beautiful white, yellow and pink roses, and we wanted to make bright red ones—but we didn’t manage yet.
Who are some of the unsung heroes behind your creations?There is a lady that engraves … She is self-taught. She used to decorate our movements and once she asked me if she could try to learn engraving; she really wanted to expand her knowledge. I said, “Well, if you don’t spend all your time on the [movement decorating] projects, I agree that you could spend some time teaching yourself to engrave.” And then we went from one small project to another and today she’s a very good engraver. She’s part of the small artisan team now at Chopard.
What’s your process for approving a new minute repeater?It’s a combination of scientific measurement and personal judgement. We worked with a university to determine acoustic parameters we could measure, such as sound levels and rhythm. But the final decision on whether a sound is good enough comes down to personal taste.
What philosophy or personal significance does time hold for you?Time is precious. I believe it’s important to measure it with something equally precious, well- made and of artistic value. Mechanical timepieces can be handed down through generations, lasting [for a long] time. It’s crucial to be fully conscious of how we spend our time, even if we choose to relax.
If there were no constraints, what dream watch would you love to create?A few years ago, we created a watch called All in One [one of the brand’s most complicated pieces to date]. I’d like to recreate it, now including our latest movement developments like the minute repeater, and make it as small as possible. It’s a project I might start but my son may have to finish.
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