Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas collection, a symbol of refined sportiness in the luxury watch world, has embarked on a new colourful journey. At Watches and Wonders 2024, the Swiss brand introduced a striking series of Overseas models featuring sunburst green dials, marking a significant departure from its traditional palette.
The Overseas collection, launched in 1996, has a fascinating history that stretches back to the 1970s. It was born during a tumultuous period for Swiss watchmaking, as the industry grappled with economic challenges and the rise of quartz technology. The collection’s predecessor, the iconic 222 model, was created in 1977 to celebrate Vacheron Constantin’s 222nd anniversary. Only about 500 of these pioneering sport-luxury watches were produced before the model was discontinued in 1985.
Over the years, the Overseas collection has evolved significantly. In 2004, it adopted a sportier look with a distinctive half Maltese cross motif on the bezel and bracelet links. The 2016 revamp brought a more refined aesthetic and introduced an innovative quick-change strap system, allowing wearers to easily switch between metal bracelets, leather and rubber straps without tools.
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Vacheron Constantin introduces a vibrant new chapter in its iconic sport-luxury line, blending heritage and modern style (Photo: courtesy of Vacheron Constantin)
Christian Selmoni, Vacheron Constantin’s style andheritage director (Photo: courtesy of Vacheron Constantin)
Christian Selmoni, Vacheron Constantin’s style and heritage director says, “We chose a deep green exuding hints of plants and forests—a sort of call to nature that makes a perfect fit with the Overseas spirit of travel and exploration.”
The new green-dialled Overseas models are available in four variations, all crafted in 18-karat 5N pink gold and showcasing the watchmaker’s mastery across various watch sizes and complications. Selmoni says, “This intense green colour acts as a revealer, enhancing the brilliance of the gold while ensuring exceptional legibility of the watch’s functions”.
The smallest offering, the 35mm model, is adorned with 84 round-cut diamonds totalling approximately 1.1 carats, and houses the self-winding Calibre 5300. This movement, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, boasts a 44-hour power reserve and drives the hours, minutes and central seconds hands with precision.
Moving up in size, the 41mm date model strikes a perfect balance between sporty and sophisticated. Powered by the Calibre 5100, it offers a generous 60-hour power reserve. This movement, decorated with Côtes de Genève, circular graining and chamfering, is a feast for the eyes through the transparent caseback. The date window at three o’clock adds practicality without disrupting the dial’s design.
Vacheron ConstantinOverseas Chronograph (Photo: courtesy of Vacheron Constantin)
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time (Photo: courtesy of Vacheron Constantin)
For the globetrotters, the 41mm dual time model is an ideal companion. Its Calibre 5110 DT movement enables the wearer to track two time zones simultaneously. It features a fourth hand, tipped with a red arrow, that indicates the home time, along with a day/night indicator. Additionally, the date is displayed in a sector at six o’clock and is synchronised with the local time, adjustable via a push-piece. With a 60-hour power reserve, this model combines functionality with Vacheron Constantin’s signature elegance.
The collection’s sportiest offering is the 42.5mm chronograph. Equipped with the Calibre 5200, this self-winding movement features a column wheel and a vertical clutch for precise timekeeping. The chronograph functions are displayed via a 30-minute counter at three o’clock and a 12-hour counter at six o’clock, with a small seconds subdial at nine o’clock. Despite its complex mechanism, the movement maintains a 52-hour power reserve. The chronograph pushers are thoughtfully designed to be operable underwater, enhancing the watch’s versatility.
Each of these models exemplifies Vacheron Constantin’s commitment to both form and function. The green sunburst dials serve as a unifying element, the rich hue complemented by the warmth of the pink gold cases and hands. All models feature water resistance down to 150 metres, and soft iron casing rings to protect against magnetic fields.
The sunburst satin-finished dials, paired with a velvet-finished flange, create a dynamic interplay of textures. Pink gold hour markers and hands ensure excellent legibility against the green background.
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A watchmaker at work (Photo: courtesy of Vacheron Constantin)
The new green sunburst (Photo: courtesy of Vacheron Constantin)
Maintaining the collection’s hallmark versatility, these new models come with Vacheron Constantin’s signature quick-change strap system, offering three options: a pink gold bracelet, a green calfskin leather strap and a green rubber strap. This feature allows wearers to effortlessly adapt their timepiece to different occasions and personal styles.
The six-sided bezel, inspired by the Maltese cross, remains a defining feature of the Overseas collection. The sapphire crystal casebacks reveal the intricately finished in-house movements, each bearing the Hallmark of Geneva.
Versatility remains a signature trait of the Overseas collection. Selmoni says, “These watches must be able to adapt to all circumstances of active life.” He adds, “Tool-free bracelet and strap interchangeability play a key role. Whether the wearer opts for an integrated bracelet … or for a leather or rubber strap, they can choose a style that is casual, classic or sporty.”
The introduction of these green-dialled models represents a thoughtful evolution of the Overseas line. By blending the collection’s established design elements with a fresh colour, Vacheron Constantin has created pieces that feel both novel and familiar. These new models are poised to captivate both longtime aficionados and newcomers, offering a fresh perspective on one of horology’s most respected sport-luxury collections.
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