Shanghai is a city of contrasts: both modern skyscrapers and historic low-rises line the Huangpu River. There’s so much to learn from this city when it comes to adapting to changing times while keeping its soul alive, so it was no wonder that Cartier chose to hold its latest high jewellery exhibition there. It’s a fitting backdrop for a celebration that revisits a storied past while embracing the future.
Our journey began with the latest chapter in the Nature Sauvage high jewellery collection. The exhibition showcased 400 pieces that explored Cartier’s emblematic fauna in ways that were both surprising and enchanting. The animals were crafted almost like optical illusions, and they appeared only when you looked at the designs closely.
Among the standouts was The Vamana Necklace. This piece reimagines the elephant motif in an abstract form, capturing the creature’s grandeur through minimalist outlines that emphasise large, exaggerated ears and an elongated trunk, all highlighted with diamonds arranged in sharp geometric patterns. The piece is made even more dramatic thanks to two vivid emeralds, which serve as the creature’s eyes, drawing attention to the face, which at first appears hidden, amid the sparkle of diamonds.
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Cartier, the Power of Magic exhibit at Shanghai Museum East (Photo: courtesy of Cartier)
The exploration of the animal kingdom within this new chapter is also seen in the Wani Necklace, which transforms the crocodile into a piece of art. This necklace features the reptile’s body shimmering with a pattern of lozenge-shaped diamond scales set against a backdrop of emerald paving. The design captures the essence of the animal, with a tail that curves gracefully around the wearer’s neck. The final touch comes from the three cabochon-cut Zambian emeralds with a total weight of 27.83 carats, that dangle like pendants from its body.
Tatler had the opportunity to take part in a masterclass led by a high jewellery artisan from Cartier’s headquarters. We were guided step by step through the intricate process of chiselling and shaping our own wax panther, bringing the iconic Cartier symbol to life. This hands-on experience deepened our appreciation for the artistry involved in high jewellery creation and allowed us to connect personally with the craftsmanship that defines the Maison.
The following day, I eagerly anticipated the Cartier, the Power of Magic exhibition, which opened on November 4, at the Shanghai Museum East. It not only provided a peek into Cartier’s history but also marked a significant moment in cultural dialogue between China and France as part of the Sino- French Year of Cultural Tourism. More than 300 creations from The Cartier Collection were displayed alongside nearly 40 pieces of Chinese art.
Desk Clock with Strut (1925) (Photo: courtesy of Cartier)
One standout exhibit is the Academician’s sword, crafted for the illustrious French writer Jean Cocteau in 1955. The piece, designed by Cocteau himself, is made from gold, silver, emeralds, rubies, diamonds, opal and onyx, with a steel blade; it reflects the author’s multifaceted creativity and design genius. The hand guard traces the profile of Orpheus, his muse, while the ancient Greek prophet’s lyre, adorned with a 2.84-carat emerald and rubies, crowns the pommel. Each detail tells a story—fabric-like gold wrapped around the hilt evokes drapery reminiscent of ancient theatre, while Cocteau’s initials and symbols adorn the scabbard, connecting his literary legacy to the weapon.
Another extraordinary artifact is the Coral Dragon, a rare sculpture carved from a single piece of coral. This dragon is not just a representation of myth; it embodies intricate craftsmanship with its distinctly carved scales and limbs adorned with lingzhi mushrooms and baby dragons. The dragon’s mouth opens to reveal a movable pearl inside—a playful yet elegant detail that enhances its mythical allure.
The Vamana Necklace from the Nature Sauvage high jewellery collection (Photo: courtesy of Cartier)
The exhibition also featured a Desk Clock with Strut, created in 1925 by Russian painter and art collector based in Paris, V Makowski. The central plaque showcases Makowski’s skill in recreating traditional Chinese stone and lacquer work, making the piece functional as well as a highly decorative object that bridges cultural divides.
Scenography and visual direction for the exhibition were crafted by cAI, an artificial intelligence model developed by renowned artist Cai Guo-Qiang. This collaboration aims to create an immersive experience that bridges human creativity with AI technology, showcasing how these realms can coexist and enhance artistic expression.
As I left the museum, I felt enriched; not just by the beauty I had witnessed but by the stories woven into each piece, reminding us that luxury is about connection— between people, cultures and histories, which are essential in our ever-evolving world.
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