The name Rolex carries a certain prestige, and when you add ‘Oyster Perpetual’, it evokes a particular thrill among collectors. After all, for over 90 years, the Rolex Oyster has been the torchbearer of the watchmaker’s perpetual—no pun intended—quest for innovation.
Its birth in 1926 is one of the most significant moments in horological history. It was hailed as the world’s first waterproof wristwatch, featuring a novel case construction that involved screwing down the bezel, the caseback, and the winding crown onto the middle case.
This led to the name ‘Oyster’, a nod to its proven resistance against water infiltration. Notably, its middle case has always been crafted from solid yet precious materials such as Oystersteel, RLX titanium, 18-karat gold, and 950 platinum.
Read more: What makes a Rolex timepiece… a ‘Rolex’?
A historic Oyster with an octoganal case from 1926
The Oyster case is one of the most iconic today and has extended its water-depth capability to the utilitarian dive watches of the Submariner, the Sea-Dweller, and most recently, the Deepsea Challenge—the first commercially available watch capable of reaching a depth of 11,000m. All Oyster cases have a minimum depth rating of 100m, allowing even the basic model to be worn while swimming without concern.
In 1931, recognising that winding the crown exposed the watch to external elements, Rolex introduced the Perpetual winding rotor. By eliminating the need for manual winding, it provided greater convenience for users and significantly improved the watch’s water resistance.
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Exploded view of the Oyster case from 1926
Chronometric precision is another key pillar of the Oyster Perpetual. Adjusted to a deviation of -2/+2 seconds per day, the Oyster Perpetual movements are twice as precise as the standard imposed by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) for a calibre to be certified as a chronometer. This precision validates Rolex’s claim of it being a superlative chronometer—two words that, incidentally, appear on the Oyster Perpetual dial.
Nevertheless, Rolex refuses to rest on its laurels. In 2000, it developed the Parachrom hairspring. Made from a proprietary alloy of niobium and zirconium, it is resistant to magnetic fields, offers greater stability during temperature changes, and is 10 times more accurate than traditional hairsprings.
Read more: This Rolex watch survived a depth of 11,000m
The Perpetual winding rotor was developed in 1931
In 2005, the Swiss manufacture introduced a new surface treatment that not only reinforced the hairspring’s long-term stability but also gave it a distinctive blue hue. The Rolex Syloxi hairspring, introduced in 2014, built on the benefits of the Parachrom model, specifically catering to smaller watches.
Then there is the Paraflex, a mechanism that protects the balance wheel from impacts by up to 50 per cent. The geometry of the shock absorber spring, developed through computer simulation, enables it to withstand extreme conditions.
Watch in the testing stage during the research and development process
These exclusive innovations have served Rolex well over the years and are showcased in 12 Oyster Perpetual lines, divided into two categories. The Classic category features iconic models such as the Datejust, the Day-Date, and the Sky-Dweller, which includes a 24-hour ring to indicate a second time zone.
The Professional category, as its name suggests, features watches for professionals engaged in specific activities like mountain climbing, motor racing, and deep-sea diving. Models such as the Explorer, the Submariner, and the Sea-Dweller belong to this category of tool watches.
Assembling a Rolex movement by hand
Who could forget the famous story of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reaching the summit of Everest with a Rolex on their wrists in 1953? Their achievements inspired the creation of the Explorer, which features a high-contrast dial for improved legibility.
Another memorable tale involves the specially developed the Rolex Deepsea Challenge, the experimental watch attached to the exterior of a submersible during the solo descent to the Mariana Trench led by Avatar filmmaker and Rolex Testimonee James Cameron in 2012. The vessel descended to a depth of 10,908 metres to reach the Pacific Ocean’s deepest point. The watch withstood the extreme pressure of the ocean’s depths, demonstrating its exceptional durability and water resistance.
Such remarkable feats further enhance the desirability of the Oyster Perpetual, a timepiece clearly crafted for the bold and the adventurous who seek both prestige and precision.
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