For nearly a decade, watch brands have been hitting rewind and reviving iconic designs. Are they running low on fresh ideas and stuck in a creative rut? Not at all. By riding the nostalgia wave, watchmakers are capitalising on earlier triumphs, rejuvenating their collections, and crafting compelling stories that resonate with today’s audience.
Take Tag Heuer, for example. The reintroduction of the Monaco in 2003 and the Carrera in 2004—now key staples for the brand—demonstrates how revisiting classic styles can be highly effective when adapted for contemporary tastes. Case in point: A standout for Tag Heuer this year is a gold version of the Carrera Skipper that first debuted in steel in 1968.
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Tag Heuer Carrera Skipper
Similarly, Blancpain revived its legendary Fifty Fathoms diver’s watch in 2003, with the latest iterations being new 42mm automatic versions in red gold or titanium.
Cartier has also excelled in this regard, continuously reimagining tentpole collections like the Panthère, Baignoire, and Santos-Dumont since 2017. The Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph, unveiled at Watches & Wonders this year, is a prime example of the brand’s commitment to reinterpreting its storied designs.
For watchmakers, the real challenge lies in respecting the original design while making necessary improvements. Vacheron Constantin’s 2022 revival of the 222, a 1970s trendsetter, strikes this balance. Piaget achieves the same with its Polo 79, capturing the era’s jet-set style but now featuring a larger 38mm diameter (up from the original 34mm) and a modern self-winding caliber in place of the initial quartz movement.
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Piaget Polo 79
Zenith’s Revival range, including the Defy Revival A3648, unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2024, pays homage to its 1969 likeness with a distinctive 14-sided bezel and angular 37mm case.
Zenith Defy Revival A3648
Brands are expertly navigating the delicate interplay between historical fidelity and 21st century creativity. Alpina, celebrating its 140th anniversary, released two limited Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years models featuring restored AL-490 movements from 1938, but with updated touches like a sapphire caseback.
Audemars Piguet is another, with CEO Ilaria Resta noting, “Audemars Piguet has always been attached to its past while looking to the future.” The 250-piece [RE]Master02, inspired by a 1963 brutalist-style asymmetrical model, embodies this forward-thinking vision with its ultra-thin caliber sculpted in sand gold and bevelled sapphire crystal.
Alpina Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years
Watchmaking’s journey through time is more than a nostalgic nod to bygone eras; it’s a dynamic blend of tradition and innovation. Brands are not only honouring their heritage, but also elevating craftsmanship standards. This fusion captivates and inspires, proving that past and present can indeed coexist in perfect harmony.
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