Every month, Tatler speaks to Hong Kong-based jewellers to demystify the world of jewellery. This month, we decided to bust some myths surrounding the difference between lab-grown diamonds and natural diamonds. With that in mind, we spoke with Sonia Layla Savalani, founder of Esse Fine Jewellery.
With a commitment to sustainability and affordability, Savalani is redefining the landscape of fine jewellery through her innovative use of lab-grown diamonds, crafted in solid 18-karat gold. In our conversation, she addresses common misconceptions and highlights the benefits of choosing lab-grown options for modern consumers.
Constas earrings (Photo: courtesy of Esse fine jewellery)
Pear-shaped, GIA certified lab-grown diamond (Photo: courtesy of Esse fine jewellery)
What’s the difference between a lab-grown diamond and a natural diamond?To debunk the biggest myth of them all—right off the bat—there is zero difference between a lab-grown diamond and a naturally mined diamond other than their source of origin. A diamond grown in a lab and a diamond found in a mine share the same physical and chemical properties, there is no difference between the two.
Is it worth buying lab-grown diamonds? Are they a good investment?With the prices of both mined and lab-grown diamonds taking a hit, I [would suggest] buying a lab-grown diamond piece as a benefit to yourself rather than an investment. The best way to determine whether or not lab-grown diamonds are right for you is to ask yourself if you would pay the premium that is set for mined diamonds, for example, a pair of lab-grown two-carat diamond studs is much cheaper than a pair of mined two-carat diamond studs, so since they are the same thing—if you want them in your collection, then going with lab-grown diamonds would make more sense [economically].
What are the advantages and disadvantages of buying lab-grown diamonds?Of course, the biggest advantage of lab-grown diamonds is the price point. With that comes a slew of other advantages, such as the ability to choose a diamond with a collectively better set of the four Cs [cut, carat, clarity, and colour]. The biggest disadvantage of lab-grown diamonds is the lack of education about them. As with any new, disruptive industry, it takes time for people to become educated and understand the benefits of lab-grown diamonds.
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High jewellery pear bracelet (Photo: courtesy of Esse fine jewellery)
What is the biggest myth about lab-grown diamonds that you would like to bust?There is a difference between the two. To simplify slightly, lab-grown diamonds are made using a tiny sliver of a mined diamond and then grown in conditions designed to identically simulate a diamond being grown on the earth. The FDA has stated that there is no longer a need to refer to lab-grown diamonds as “lab-grown”, they have amended the definition of diamonds to include diamonds grown in a lab.
Can a jeweller tell if a diamond is made in a lab?If your lab-grown diamond is certified it usually will have a laser inscription within it stating that. This provides transparency within the industry and prevents people from swapping mined and lab-grown diamonds. However, this is not visible to the naked eye and you would need a jeweller to be able to see this inscription.
Do lab diamonds get cloudy?Lab-grown diamonds are graded on a colour scale, just like mined diamonds. Neither will become cloudy over time, the colour will be the same as when it was graded. Of course, from regular wear and tear, they might need some cleaning. Other than that there will be no change to your lab-grown diamonds, they will sparkle for life. They will not change, discolour or break down over time. However, they should still be treated gently and cared for well, just as with any fine jewellery.
Do lab-grown diamonds break easily?Diamonds are graded on the Mohs scale at a 10, meaning they are the hardest substance, so they are extremely durable. What you should watch out for is your gold, depending on the karat you choose, gold can be very delicate.
Bands made of GIA certified lab-grown diamonds (Photo: courtesy of Esse fine jewellery)
Babytags designed by Savalani (Photo: courtesy of Esse fine jewellery)
Do lab-grown diamonds hold the same value as natural diamonds?Neither lab-grown diamonds nor natural diamonds are currently able to actually hold any value. My rule of thumb is that unless you are purchasing a particularly unique mined diamond, such as an old-mine cut or a large diamond with an interesting history in terms of who has worn or cared for it before, then lab-grown diamonds, even without holding their value, would make more sense for your jewellery collection.
Will lab-grown diamonds pass a diamond tester?There are two types of lab-grown diamonds, CVD & HPHT. On a generic tester, both will pass, as the tester becomes more and more advanced then certain testers, mostly owned by established jewellers can gauge how the crystal pattern was formed within the diamond and they will be able to let you know which is which.
Are lab-grown diamonds GIA-certified? If not, is there another form of certification for lab-grown diamonds?Lab-grown diamonds can be GIA-certified, however, the more common body of certification is IGI.
5 things one should keep in mind when investing in lab-grown diamonds.
- Lab-grown diamonds one carat or over should always be purchased certified.
- Since there is no way for a client to be able to tell the difference between lab or mined diamonds, it is extremely important to work with a jeweller that you trust and you know is providing you with the diamonds that you asked for.
- Since lab-grown diamonds do not tarnish over time, you must choose quality gold as well. Setting your lab-grown diamonds in vermeil or something gold-plated defeats the purpose of being able to own this piece forever and potentially pass it down as an heirloom.
- Even though buying a lab-grown diamond allows you to go with a “D” coloured diamond, I don’t suggest it for large stones. For example, a D-coloured 4-carat engagement ring sounds beautiful on paper but to the naked eye, a diamond of that size looks better in the F/G colour range. For pieces like tennis bracelets, choosing D-coloured diamonds would be fine and not overly white.
- This goes for any jewellery, but be true to yourself and ask questions. It is so important for jewellery to reflect your personality and be a useful addition to your collection. In order to create a more versatile piece, have a conversation with your jeweller and see what else you are able to do with that piece. An example is earring jackets create so much versatility for a piece that can be used every day.
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