Luxury sports watches stand out not only for their robust engineering and sophisticated aesthetics but also for their storied pasts, each intertwined with pivotal moments in human history. From being submerged in the profound depths of the ocean to navigating the vast expanse of space, these watches have not merely kept time but have also been integral to adventures that define the modern era. Let’s explore.
Our journey begins in 1953, with the birth of the Rolex Submariner. This wasn’t just any timepiece; it was a revolution in stainless steel, meticulously engineered to conquer the ocean, with its water resistance initially going down to 100 metres, a figure that would later be enhanced to an impressive 300 metres. The Submariner was first introduced as a direct response to the growing demand for dive watches that could withstand the pressures of deep-sea exploration. Its robust and functional design featured a rotatable bezel, allowing divers to monitor their immersion time, a critical feature for safe diving.
But as we all know, interest in the Submariner reached far beyond the diving community. While Omega is best known for its association with the James Bond franchise, the first watch to appear in a Bond film was in fact the Rolex Submariner. It gained icon status when it graced the wrist of Sean Connery in the 1962 film Dr No. This association with Bond, a character known for his suave yet adventurous persona, transformed the Submariner into a symbol of ultimate sophistication that was equally at home in dangerous waters as it was at lavish casino nights.
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Buzz Aldrin wearing the Omega Speedmaster “Moonwatch” (Photo: courtesy of Omega)
The Submariner’s fame reached beyond cinematic exploits to make it one of the most desirable piece from any manufacture; vintage models frequently fetch impressive sums at auction. For instance, back in 2018, a Rolex Submariner 6538 became the most expensive Submariner sold at auction at US$1 million, sold by Christie’s in its New York sale. Moreover, the Submariner’s rugged build and timeless design have made it a favourite among watch lovers, including Hollywood stars like Steve McQueen and Robert Redford.
Four years after the Submariner’s creation, the Omega Speedmaster made its grand entrance. Conceived initially to serve the precise needs of auto racing aficionados, the Speedmaster was equipped with a chronograph capable of measuring fractions of a second and a tachymeter scale on the bezel to compute speed based on travel time. This functionality made it an instant hit on the racetracks, where timing is as crucial as an engine’s horsepower.
However, the destiny of the Speedmaster was to transcend terrestrial boundaries. In 1965, it passed Nasa’s stringent tests against extreme conditions like shock, temperature and vibration, outperforming other contenders. This certification marked the Speedmaster for a higher calling: in 1969, it ascended to legendary status when Buzz Aldrin wore it as he stepped onto the surface of the moon during the Apollo 11 mission, leading to its perhaps predictably being christened the Moonwatch.
A Rolex Submariner, reference 1680, circa 1975, sold by Bonhams (Photo: courtesy of Bonhams)
The Moonwatch’s lunar credentials turned it into a symbol of human achievement and technological excellence. It wasn’t long before it became a cultural icon, appearing on the wrists of celebrities, politicians and even more astronauts on later missions. Apollo 13 commander James Lovell famously used his Speedmaster to time an engine burn, helping to safely redirect the damaged spacecraft back to Earth, a real-life drama that added another layer to the Speedmaster’s allure, and cemented its reputation as a lifesaver. In 2022, a noteworthy auction took place where an early 1957 Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 was sold for an impressive sum of over US$3.4 million by a reputable auction house. However, it was later revealed that the watch in question was a Frankenwatch.
In 1963, a decade after the Submariner, Rolex introduced another history-making timepiece, and one which posed a direct challenge to the Speedmaster. The Rolex Daytona was tailored to high- speed life, featuring a chronograph and tachymeter scale that made it indispensable for measuring lap speeds. Rolex Daytona models, especially those associated with the actor and racing enthusiast Paul Newman, are known for fetching exceptionally high prices at auction. A Rolex Cosmograph Daytona reference 6239 with a distinctive exotic dial became iconic after Newman was photographed wearing it numerous times. In October 2017, it was sold at a Phillips auction in New York for US$17.8 million, making it one of the most expensive wristwatches ever sold at auction at the time.
Not to be outdone, Tag Heuer introduced the Monaco in 1969, a watch that dared to be square when others were content to stay round. While its standout feature was the shape, its pioneering technology was not to be sniffed at—it presented the world’s first automatic chronograph movement housed in a waterproof case. This innovation combined the convenience of automatic winding with the precise timekeeping required for professional sports timing within a hardy shell, making it suitable for the most active of lifestyles.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch (Photo: courtesy of Omega)
But it wasn’t just the technical prowess that catapulted the Monaco into the spotlight; it was its association with the American actor and racing champion Steve McQueen. In 1971, he wore the Monaco in the film Le Mans, about the titular 24-hour car race in France. McQueen’s character, a determined, introspective driver, mirrored the qualities of the Monaco watch itself—resilient, bold and unyieldingly precise. His choice to wear it not only reflected his personal style but also permanently linked the watch with high-speed racing and cinematic history.
Over the years, Tag Heuer has continued to develop the Monaco, introducing various models that expand on its heritage with modern updates to the mechanics and style, the latest of which was revealed this year at the industry trade show Watches and Wonders in Geneva. However, the original elements—a square case, blue dial and chronograph functionality—remain as distinctive features, preserving the spirit of the 1969 classic.
Following hot on Tag Heuer’s trail was Audemars Piguet. In 1972, the legendary Gérald Genta designed the Royal Oak, turning the watch world upside down: it was the first luxury watch made from humble stainless steel, yet priced higher than some gold watches. The construction of the Royal Oak’s unique, angular case was more complex than most contemporary watches, the seamless integration of the bracelet requiring precision engineering and meticulous assembly. Each case consisted of many different facets and surfaces, all of which had to be individually polished and brushed to create a harmonious look. This level of metalworking detail, particularly with a tough material like stainless steel, added to the production costs, forcing watch lovers to reconsider what was valuable when it came to materials.
Portrait of Paul Newman (Photo: courtesy of Herbert Dorfman/Corbis/Getty Images)
The narrative of luxury sports watches took a sophisticated turn in 1976 with the debut of the Patek Philippe Nautilus, also crafted by Genta. Riding on the wave of success generated by the Royal Oak, the Nautilus was introduced not merely as another sports watch but as a symbol of luxury that could withstand the rigours of active use without sacrificing its refined aesthetic. The design was inspired by a ship’s porthole, evident in its distinctive octagonal bezel and the subtle curves of its case, which were both innovative and instantly recognisable. This nautical theme was not just a stylistic choice but a nod to its capabilities as a dive watch.
What set the Nautilus apart was its ability to seamlessly marry the robustness required of a sports watch with the polished finesse expected of a high-end timepiece. Its case was constructed from stainless steel, which was still a novel idea for luxury watches at the time, showcasing exceptional craftsmanship that justified its position in the world of watchmaking.
While Casio may not be synonymous with luxury watches, its significant contribution to the sports watch sector is undeniable, particularly with the introduction of the G-Shock. By 1983, the world was ready for something tougher than the sports watches that had gone before; Casio engineer Kikuo Ibe answered the call with the G-Shock. Built to withstand a 10-metre drop and 10 bars of water pressure (100m water resistance), and boasting a ten- year battery life, the G-Shock was the watch you could accidentally run over with your lawnmower and then wear to go diving. It was, and still is, nearly indestructible, becoming the go-to for everyone from military personnel to skateboarders. From Prince Harry, the Duke of Sussex, who was frequently spotted wearing the watch in his younger years, to musicians such as Kanye West and Justin Bieber, the watch has become ingrained in pop culture and secured its position among popular timepieces.
As we look back on the stories of these iconic watches, it’s clear they offer more than just a way to mark the seconds: they are keepers of history, markers of progress and icons of enduring value.
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