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The fifth element: Shingo Gokan’s new bar Gokan is a sensational hit in Hong Kong

Tatler Hong Kong
更新於 07月24日01:23 • 發布於 07月23日07:30 • Fontaine Cheng

Shingo Gokan, the celebrated mixologist behind acclaimed bars such as Speak Low in Shanghai and SG Club in Tokyo, has opened the doors to his latest venture in Hong Kong: Gokan. Renowned for his innovative approach to cocktail crafting and bar experiences, Gokan’s new establishment is eponymously named. In Japanese, ‘Gokan’ means ‘five senses’, promising to engage all the senses while being deeply rooted in traditional Japanese concepts.

Gokan’s journey to bartending greatness began in Tokyo, where he started as a bartender at 18 and quickly rose to manage a high-volume bar by 20. In 2006, he moved to New York, where his tenure at the esteemed Angel’s Share introduced the city to Japanese bartending techniques. His victory in the 2012 Bacardi Global Legacy Cocktail Competition with the cocktail Speak Low catapulted him to international fame, leading to the opening of his first bar in Shanghai. With the opening of Gokan in Hong Kong, he now oversees a portfolio of ten bars globally. For this new concept, Gokan has teamed up with hospitality experts Russell Stradmoor and Amanda Cheung, known for their hugely successful 888FatFatFat pop-up. Their collaboration aims to bring a fresh and exciting dimension to Hong Kong’s vibrant bar scene.

Located on Ice House Street in Central, Gokan occupies a site steeped in history from the mid-1800s when it was famous for its ice trade. This historic location, with its rich heritage, offers a perfect backdrop for a bar that aims to blend tradition with modernity. We took a moment to speak with the man of the moment to see what else we should expect at Gokan.

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Inside Gokan

Inside Gokan

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Shingo, you’re known for creating unique bar experiences in Tokyo and Shanghai. What inspired you to bring your next venture to Hong Kong?

I’ve been wanting to do something in Hong Kong for some time now, but I was waiting for the perfect opportunity. It’s very important to me to do things at the right time with the right team, and with Gokan, everything fell into place perfectly.

The name ‘Gokan’ translates to ‘five senses’ in Japanese. Can you elaborate on how you plan to engage each of the five senses in your new bar?

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The five senses are one part of a larger idea of ‘fives’ rooted in Japanese culinary tradition that is centuries old.

In addition to gokan (five senses), there’s also gomi (five flavours), goshiki (five colours), goho (five techniques) and goteki (five appropriates). All of these elements come together at Gokan to influence everything from the interior design to the music and even the lighting so that guests will get a complete experience.

The menu will feature craft cocktails based on the five tastes and colours. Can you share more about this concept and what guests can expect?

Our menu features cocktails that are crafted to the highest standards. Every drink on the menu is designed to deliver a multi-sensory experience befitting the Gokan name. Each drink explores the ‘fives’ and is expressed in one of three ways: highball, on the rocks, or straight up.

Gokan is located on Ice House Street in Central

Gokan is located on Ice House Street in Central

You mentioned focusing on the five appropriates: temperature, ingredients, amount, technique and timing. How do these principles guide your approach to crafting cocktails and designing the bar experience?

When you craft a cocktail, it is very important to understand the character of each ingredient. For example, when you make tea, if it is steeped at room temperature, it will result in a lot of bitter notes. So with goteki (five appropriates), a big part is having the right knowledge and experience to understand what ingredients to use and how to use them.

With chefs like Zaiyu Hasegawa of Den and Tsukasa Uraguchi of Arbor curating the menu, how will the culinary offerings complement your cocktail creations?

The idea of Gokan is rooted in traditional Japanese culinary concepts. So for the food, I wanted to work with someone who is both familiar with these ideas and also capable of making dishes that fit the bar setting.

Zaiyu and Tsukasa are the perfect chefs to do this. Zaiyu is especially knowledgeable about Japanese culinary traditions and the way he reinterprets Japanese food perfectly aligns with Gokan. His food is fun, memorable and delicious. There is no one else I’d rather collaborate with.

Kaito Ohba and Morris Chang will be leading the bar. What qualities did you see in them that made you choose them for Gokan?

Kaito and Morris are both very talented bartenders with plenty of experience working at top bars around the world. I would say Kaito has more of a classic Japanese bartending style, while Morris has more of a modern style. Together, they cover all the bases and make a very good combination. I have complete trust in them for Gokan.

The design by Atsuhiko Sugiyama blends classic Japanese and American vintage styles. How does this aesthetic contribute to the overall experience at Gokan?

All of my bars have been designed by Sugi. We have built a great relationship over the years and he understands exactly what I like and what I am looking for in a concept. His designs not only look good but are also functional. He always puts a lot of thought into how his designs work for the operations side as well, so that we can deliver excellent service. His design for gokan is one of my favourites so far, and I think that guests will fall in love with it too.

What do you hope guests will take away from their experience at Gokan?

My number one priority is always to provide the highest quality product and service, so I hope guests enjoy the drinks and food offerings that we have. However, I would also like guests to have the complete Gokan experience—one that appeals to all five senses through our unique blend of cocktails, cuisine, music, ambience and service.

GokanAddress: 30 Ice House Street, Central, Hong Kong

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