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What drives a high jewellery visionary like Cindy Chao to pursue perfection in a world that often settles for less?

Tatler Hong Kong
更新於 11月04日04:43 • 發布於 11月04日04:00 • Amrita Katara

When Cindy Chao decides to embark on a new project, the stakes are always high and her commitment to perfection is unwavering. Two decades ago, armed with nothing but determination and artistic vision, she ventured to Paris to establish her workshop. In an industry traditionally dominated by men, she found herself battling against seasoned craftsmen, engaging in countless fights as she pushed jewellery design boundaries. Her pioneering spirit led her team to prestigious venues like the Paris Biennale and beyond, where few Asian brands had ventured before.

Today, it’s common knowledge that Chao’s illustrious career, spanning two decades, is peppered with numerous stories of dedication to the craft of jewellery design. One such story centres around the Peony Brooch, a creation that took eight years to complete. The European craftsmen working on the piece believed they had finally achieved perfection and prepared a stunning jewellery box for Chao, inviting her to Paris to celebrate their efforts.

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Cindy Chao wearing a Bottega Veneta dress and CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel 20th Anniversary Collection’s Ribbon Brooch

Cindy Chao wearing a Bottega Veneta dress and CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel 20th Anniversary Collection’s Ribbon Brooch

Cindy Chao wearing a Bottega Veneta dress and CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel 20th Anniversary Collection’s Ribbon Brooch
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Cindy Chao wearing a Bottega Veneta dress and CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel 20th Anniversary Collection’s Ribbon Brooch

The five craftsmen surrounded her, confident in their work, as if waiting for her to praise them. However, when the box was opened, Chao frowned. Everyone was stunned, and two craftsmen were moved to tears. Their collective frustration and disappointment erupted as they questioned why she would reject their hard work over what seemed like a minor issue.

The crux of the matter was a ruby’s position on one of the petal’s curves—a displacement measured by merely 0.15mm, thinner than a human hair. “But I can see it,” Chao told them. The craftsmen responded, “Everyone has worked so hard for so long, and we think it’s already perfect. Why are you so obsessed with one tiny petal?” The ensuing debate intensified, with both sides standing their ground, but Chao won in the end.

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Modifying the titanium—a material known for its hardness—would mean starting from scratch. But she decided to give the piece the luxury of time that it deserved. The jewel took another two years of refinement and, when she finally approved the design, the craftsmen understood her insistence on perfection. The Peony Brooch now resides in Britain’s Victoria and Albert Museum, where its lifelike quality often draws viewers in close enough to imagine its fragrance, leaving nose prints on its glass case.

Cindy Chao wearing a Ferragamo outfit and CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel White Label Collection Architectural Brown- Yellow Diamond Earrings and 20th Anniversary Collection Foliage Brooch

Cindy Chao wearing a Ferragamo outfit and CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel White Label Collection Architectural Brown- Yellow Diamond Earrings and 20th Anniversary Collection Foliage Brooch

With this unrelenting quest for perfection, Chao’s iconic pieces like the Royal Butterfly Brooch, Ruby Butterfly Brooch and Peony Brooch have found permanent homes in such prestigious institutions as the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, and the V&A. At the induction ceremony for the Royal Butterfly, Jeffrey Post, director of the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History, said, “The awe-inspiring array of colourful and glistening gems and Cindy Chao’s masterful design combine to create a whimsically beautiful jewelled butterfly. It is a wonderful gift that I am sure will be immensely popular with our visitors.”

On being applauded for her work in the west, Chao says, “Each recognition reinforces my conviction that we are on the right path. When you create something truly exceptional, it transcends race, language, and cultural boundaries. In an industry historically dominated by Western houses, receiving their recognition stands as the ultimate validation of our artistic vision.”

Besides creating museum-worthy pieces that decorate the halls of important institutions in the west, the artist has also collaborated with fashion veteran and Sex and the City star Sarah Jessica Parker, to create the Ballerina Butterfly brooch, which also became the highlight at a Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction and graced the cover of Sotheby’s magazine, further solidifying her place in the art world.

Her list of accolades also includes an invitation to participate in the 28th Paris Biennale des Antiquaires at the Grand Palais, as the sole Asian brand. And just 12 years after entering the cut-throat high jewellery industry, CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel received recognition from the highest echelons of the jewellery art world while in competition with centuries-old brands, when she was awarded the Chevalier dans l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres, or a Knight of the Order of Arts and Letters, by the French minister of culture for her contributions to the transmission of French jewellery savoir-faire.

Cindy Chao wearing a Balenciaga blazer, turtleneck, skirt, shoes and CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel White Label Collection Sapphire Floral Brooch

Cindy Chao wearing a Balenciaga blazer, turtleneck, skirt, shoes and CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel White Label Collection Sapphire Floral Brooch

Cindy Chao wearing a Balenciaga blazer, turtleneck, skirt, shoes and CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel White Label Collection Sapphire Floral Brooch

Cindy Chao wearing a Balenciaga blazer, turtleneck, skirt, shoes and CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel White Label Collection Sapphire Floral Brooch

Given that she’s achieved so much in such little time, many assume that Chao benefits from the backing of a large consortium of investors, allowing her to pursue her artistic visions unencumbered by business concerns. However, the truth is that, throughout the past 20 years, she has faced the same relentless challenge: financial pressure. “I just find ways to manage—I can’t let anything defeat me. No matter how big the difficulty or how many challenges, I must overcome them,” she says.

She admits the anxiety and struggles that have marked her journey, though. “Maybe it’s because I like to make trouble for myself,” she says, laughing. “Even my mum says, ‘If you like to create, you could make oil paintings or do anything else. Why must you insist on using the world’s most expensive materials for your creations?’”

While most people require tangible evidence before believing in something, Chao operates differently—she believes first and sees results later. This mindset has propelled her to accomplish what many deemed impossible, reinforcing her conviction that individuals can indeed shape their own destinies. This unwavering belief forms the backbone of Chao’s brand’s mantra, “Believing in the power of believing.” She also admits that the faith her team shows in her vision is how all the magic happens.

You might also like: What you need to know before buying lab-grown diamonds, according to an expertThe jewellery artist’s journey to international acclaim has not all been a bed of roses. In 2008, facing a pivotal moment that could have ended her artistic journey, she made a resolution that would define her legacy, it had to embody everything she loved. This introspection led her to focus her work on butterflies. “Life is like a butterfly,” she says. “It may not last long, but it should at least be brilliant in the time it is alive.”

What began as a potential career swan song became the first in a line of hugely successful works. Her inaugural butterfly piece, the Ruby Butterfly Brooch, not only marked a pivotal moment in her career but also opened doors to fresh possibilities. It became a hallmark of her brand, evolving into the most celebrated annual butterfly brooch, and reflecting Chao’s own artistic evolution.

Cindy Chao wearing a Ferragamo outfit and CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel White Label Collection Architectural Brown- Yellow Diamond Earrings and 20th Anniversary Collection Foliage Brooch

Cindy Chao wearing a Ferragamo outfit and CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel White Label Collection Architectural Brown- Yellow Diamond Earrings and 20th Anniversary Collection Foliage Brooch

Alongside butterflies, nature and the beauty of the four seasons now serve as the main inspiration for Chao’s creations, while sculpture—the form of art for which her father was famed—informs her unique approach to jewellery design: she uses sculpting techniques to capture fleeting moments of life in nature, immortalising them in precious metals, gemstones and diamonds. “Nature has life and gemstones also come from nature; different light refractions display different qualities and appearances, and that kind of energy is very appealing yet very subtle.”

Chao embraces challenges, whatever form they take. When the pandemic first broke out, some brands sought refuge within their comfort zones; she decided to split her team in half, taking one group to Shanghai to establish an artistic private showroom, CINDY CHAO Maison. She explains: “At the time, I thought, this is precisely the moment when almost everyone [there] is staying in China, and no one can travel abroad—isn’t this a great opportunity?”

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Chao’s business approach stands apart from industry conventions. While other brands might display hundreds of pieces for marketing purposes, her invitation- and appointment-only CINDY CHAO Maison and showrooms in Hong Kong, Taipei, and Shanghai follow a distinctive model, curating no more than ten pieces for each viewing ceremony. The brand’s sole public space, the CINDY CHAO Art Jewel Gallery at Taipei’s Regent Hotel, is purely for exhibition, with no sales taking place at the venue. Chao’s mission is to elevate jewellery as an art form, allowing a broader audience to understand and appreciate its artistry.

The roots of Chao’s ambition can be traced back to a pivotal moment at the age of 18, when her maternal grandfather Hsieh Tzu-Nan died. A distinguished figure in Chinese palace architecture, as well as a mathematician, Hsieh was a skilled practitioner of Nanguan music—a classical style originating in the southern Chinese province of Fujian and popular in Taiwan—he profoundly influenced Chao’s understanding of respect and legacy.

He designed and restored numerous temples across Asia. Notable projects attributed to him encompass the Wenwu Temple at Sun Moon Lake in Nantou, Sanfeng Temple in Kaohsiung, Nankunshen Daitian Temple in Tainan, Beigang Chaotian Temple in Yunlin, the Lingxiao Hall of Zhinan Temple in Taipei’s Muzha, Thian Hock Keng Temple in Singapore, and the Tosa Coral Museum in Shikoku, Japan. Many of these structures have been recognised as historical and cultural monuments. Hsieh’s embrace of the Northern Palace architectural style significantly shaped traditional architecture, establishing it as the predominant temple architectural style during the 1960s and 70s.

Cindy Chao wearing an Alexander McQueen coat and CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel White Label Collection Dragonfly Brooch

Cindy Chao wearing an Alexander McQueen coat and CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel White Label Collection Dragonfly Brooch

Cindy Chao wearing an Alexander McQueen coat and CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel White Label Collection Dragonfly Brooch

Cindy Chao wearing an Alexander McQueen coat and CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel White Label Collection Dragonfly Brooch

At his funeral, more than 300 Nanguan musicians performed, leaving an indelible mark on her perception of what success looks like. “That scene had a profound impact on me, making me clearly realise that success doesn’t necessarily equal wealth and numbers, but rather, the respect one earns in one’s lifetime. When people die, all they can receive in that moment are the memories and respect of their loved ones. So from that time on, I began to yearn for success like my grandfather had enjoyed, and to become a person who is respected by others.”

All of Chao’s designs today are inspired by the past. Without the hustle and intense growth that defined the past two decades, during which she honed her skills and shed blood, sweat and tears, she doubts she would have reached her current pinnacle of success. And as the butterfly pieces reflected a massive milestone in her career, so too is her present status reflected in her work. “If I were to describe [where I am today] with a series of works,” she says, “I think my Feather brooches best embody the current Cindy Chao, with a sense of lightness and the ability to fly.” In her early days, she says, each piece required immense effort to complete; now, the process flows with a subtlety and ease, almost as part of her nature.

Having expanded her brand globally, Chao chose to return to her roots in Taiwan—the place that represents her home and her beginnings—to celebrate 20 glorious years of CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel’s achievements with an exhibition of her greatest works, allowing her compatriots to witness first-hand the art jewels that have previously only been displayed in Europe and the US.

This milestone is not an end but merely a marker on her journey of creating future heirlooms. And through this journey, we understand the complexities of life and art and how the artist intertwines them to create masterpieces that will transcend her own existence. “I hope what I do is a contribution to this world, can shape the future and allow me to carve my name into history,” she says, fully aware that she has already achieved that feat, yet humble enough to strive for more, in her signature style.

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