As a musician, John Mayer has left an indelible mark on the industry with his guitar-playing virtuosity and Grammy-winning achievements. His rock star persona, however, belies a sophisticated appreciation for fine watches, as he has amassed an impressive collection of limited edition and rare timepieces.
Many of the watches in his collection are Audemars Piguet, a brand he loves for its complicated technical pieces. One of his favourites is his Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon in white ceramic.
Now, the avid watch collector has turned watch designer, collaborating with the manufacture on the new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “John Mayer”, which is limited to 200 pieces.
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John Mayer has gone from collecting Audemars Piguet watches to desigining one
The fact that Mayer’s name is attached to the 18-karat white gold watch instantly sets it apart. Additionally, it is the final timepiece to be equipped with the manufacture self-winding Calibre 5134, an ultra-thin perpetual calendar movement that evolved from one of the first ultra-thin perpetual calendar calibres from the ’70s, created by Audemars Piguet.
Design-wise, Mayer envisioned a “crystal sky” dial in deep blue. A process called electroforming is used to create a composition of irregular shapes resembling crystals on brass, evocative of a starlit sky. “My favourite watches have dials you can stare endlessly at,” says Mayer. “In the case of this QP quantième perpétuel, or perpetual calendar, it’s like looking up at a moonless sky.”
Mayer also modified the calendar display, making the numeral “31” smaller and slightly stepped to distinguish it from the adjacent “1”. He also chose light blue for the week indicator so that it remains legible against the deeper shade of the dial, yet complementary to it.
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Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “John Mayer” in 41mm 18-karat white gold with blue “crystal sky” dial
How did you discover Audemars Piguet?
I discovered Audemars Piguet very early on in my collecting journey. I was struck by the mix of materials on the Royal Oak Offshore because while the watch itself was high horology, the straps were rubber and very unassuming.
How did this collaboration with Audemars Piguet come about?
It actually started as a request I’d made for a unique piece. When I sent it to François-Henry (Bennahmias, then CEO of Audemars Piguet), his reaction was positive. He felt that there was something about the watch that had a wider appeal than a unique piece. From there, we started a discussion.
It was a collaboration in the truest sense, in that Audemars Piguet really has a grasp on innovation when it comes to material and manufacture. I knew what I wanted to see, and they made it happen with their expertise. Every step of the process was fun, exciting and extremely gratifying.
Why a perpetual calendar?
The perpetual calendar is, for me, the ultimate complication. Going all the way back to the idea for the unique piece, the most interesting canvas for adding different elements was the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. It’s the quintessential modern Audemars Piguet, and the dial layout as well as the complication never stop being a thrill to own and look at.
What did you want the Royal Oak “John Mayer” to represent?
I wanted it to represent not just my tastes but my understanding of the tastes of Audemars Piguet. So, I wanted to work within their brand thinking, almost like the dream Audemars Piguet watch that would make me go crazy over it.
I’m a big believer in discipline when it comes to design. If you stray too far from the core concept of the watch, you can start to lose what makes it special in the first place. It’s always important to keep in mind that the original concept is wonderful and that it doesn’t take much to make it special. Small details have a giant impact on the overall feeling of a new watch.
Selfwinding Caliber 5134 that powers the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendra “John Mayer”
Can you point out the subtleties in the watch design that may not be immediately obvious but hold a special meaning to you?
The “31” on the date sundial was an important change, making it white and redesigning the numerals. When the design team approved it, it felt like they saw the reasoning behind it and liked it. That’s way more flattering than just arbitrarily changing a colour.
The week indicator hand is blue because it allows the wearer to see the hour and minute hands in a clean way. The blue matches the dial colour in a way that lets it sink into the overall view of the watch.
Did you find any parallels between watchmaking and songwriting?
Absolutely. In record making, it’s all about many small, almost imperceptible details that can make or break a song. You can change the tempo by half a BPM, and it can make the entire song feel different. I’m a big believer that no detail is too small.
The dial mimics the look of a blue sky dotted with stars
The concept of legacy is important in watchmaking and music. How do you see this limited edition fit into your legacy?
Legacy is a big word. This limited edition, like the guitars I’ve offered through the years, is meant to represent this dedication to greatness, no matter what it is I’m doing. I want to be thoughtful, create meaningful and lasting work, and establish trust with people so that if there’s something with my name on it, it gives people the sense that it exists for a reason. I want to always be thoughtful and create things that delight people.
What do you love about Audemars Piguet watches?
There’s such a close relationship between Audemars Piguet and the collectors that owning one is to feel a direct link with the people there, with the shared vision of what they do and how they see the world.
I love that simply attending an [Audemars Piguet] event can reignite the love of the watches I already own. The piece you already own can be better appreciated depending on how you continue to feel that connection with the brand. Ownership is not the last step in appreciating a watch but the beginning.
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