At the US Open 2024, former world No. 1 Naomi Osaka made a striking return to the court in a custom Lolita-inspired ensemble that was a perfect tribute to her Japanese roots. Designed by Yoon Ahn of creative design company Ambush in collaboration with Nike, Osaka’s statement green and white kit saw a sleeveless tennis dress paired with a tiered tulle skirt, adorned with lacy frills and oversized bows. She completed the sweet and demure Harajuku-esque ensemble with ruffle-embellished Beats headphones and custom Nike sneakers in the same colourway, which also featured adorable green bows on the back.
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Naomi Osaka at the US Open 2024 (Photo: Mike Stobe / Getty Images)
Naomi Osaka at the US Open 2024 (Photo: Luke Hales / Getty Images)
Osaka updated her kit for her second match last Thursday, appearing in a black and white iteration which showcased equally dramatic large bows and white tulle accents throughout. Despite suffering a second round exit, Osaka and her bold on-court outfits top our list of the greatest tennis attire of all time. In fact, it’s inspired us to rally through the decades, uncovering the evolution of tennis fashion from purely functional to a platform for personal expression and cultural statements.
From crisp whites to daring designs, read on to discover how tennis fashion has transformed, mirroring the sport’s journey from exclusive country clubs to global arenas. As racquets and playing techniques have modernised, so too has the attire gracing the courts.
1900s to 1920s
Suzanne Lenglen in action (Photo: Getty Images)
In the early 20th century, tennis attire was all about propriety and practicality. Women graced the courts in full-length dresses, corsets, and wide-brimmed hats, while men sported long flannel trousers and dress shirts. The all-white dress code, which would become synonymous with Wimbledon and tradition, emerged during this period. White not only reflected the sun’s heat but also masked unsightly sweat stains, maintaining players’ dignified appearances.
Then in the 1920s, there was a shift towards more practical attire. Suzanne Lenglen, the French tennis star, shocked audiences by wearing a calf-length pleated skirt and short-sleeved top, setting a new standard for women’s tennis fashion.
1930s to 1940s
French tennis player Rene Lacoste in 1929 (Photo: Keystone View Company / Getty Images)
The 1930s saw a revolution in tennis wear, spearheaded by French tennis champion René Lacoste. In 1933, he founded luxury sports brand Lacoste, popularising the short-sleeved cotton piqué polo shirt adorned with the easily recognisable crocodile logo that’s now synonymous with tennis attire.
Gertrude ‘Gussie’ Moran at Wimbledon in 1949 (Photo: Barratts / Getty Images)
This era also saw the rise of the tennis dress—a simple, elegant silhouette that became a staple both on and off the court—and prim and proper tennis skirts. Then in 1949, American tennis darling Gertrude “Gussie” Moran, arguably the first female player to marry the worlds of fashion and tennis, shocked the staid world of the sport. She broke Wimbledon conventions with an above-the-knee skirt that, as soon as she began playing, rose to reveal lace-trimmed knickers underneath!
1950s to 1960s
Billie Jean King and Margaret Smith in 1962 (Photo: Burton / Getty Images)
Mary-Ann Eisel, Janie Albert, Billie Jean King and Hart at Wimbledon in 1966 (Photo: Harry Todd / Fox Photos / Getty Images)
As societal norms further relaxed, so did tennis attire. The ’50s and ’60s saw hemlines rise and fits become more form-fitting. Women’s tennis skirts shortened considerably, while men embraced shorter shorts. This era also saw subtle hints of colourful accents, logos and accessories, though the predominant colour remained white, with players like Billie Jean King embracing bolder styles.
1970s to 1980s
Björn Borg in 1977 (Photo: Focus on Sport / Getty Images)
John McEnroe in 1978 (Photo: David Madison / Getty Images)
This decade brought a vibrant revolution to tennis courts. Players like Björn Borg and John McEnroe challenged tradition with their flamboyant styles. Borg’s iconic headband and fitted polo shirts became synonymous with cool, while McEnroe’s rebellious attitude was reflected in his edgy on-court looks and antics.
Chris Evert in 1973 (Photo: Bettmann Archive / Getty Images)
Women’s tennis saw the rise of feminine yet functional designs, popularised by Chris Evert’s chic ensembles accentuated with matching accessories.
1990s to 2000s
Venus and Serena Williams in 1999 (Photo by William STEVENS/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Venus and Serena Williams in 1999 (Photo: Bernie Nunez)
Venus and Serena Williams in 2001 (Photo: John Keating / Newsday RM / Getty Images)
Venus and Serena Willams in 2008 (Photo: Simon Bruty / Getty Images)
The turn of the millennium ushered in an era of high-performance fabrics and cutting-edge design. Moisture-wicking materials, UV protection, and aerodynamic cuts became the norm. Venus and Serena Williams not only dominated the sport but also revolutionised tennis fashion with their bold, personalised outfits that often pushed the boundaries of traditional tennis wear.
2010s to present
Rafael Nadal in 2020 (Photo: Tim Clayton / Getty Images)
The back of Rafael Nadal’s shoes are seen with the number 12 on them which reference the total number of French Open's he had in 2020 (Photo: Clive Brunskill / Getty Images)
Today, tennis fashion is at the forefront of sportswear innovation, a perfect blend of style, performance, and personal branding. Top players collaborate with leading designers to create signature looks that are as much about making a statement as they are about enhancing performance. Fully bespoke kits are de rigueur for the sport’s top athletes and their sponsors, Rafael Nadal and Nike; Roger Federer and Uniqlo; and Leylah Fernandez and Lululemon just to name a few.
Roger Federer in 2022 (Photo: Jun Sato / WireImage)
Novak Djokovic in 2023 (Photo: Stefano Guidi / Getty Images)
From Nike’s innovative court-to-street designs to Stella McCartney’s eco-conscious creations for Adidas, luxury fashion houses have firmly established a presence in tennis wear. This fusion of high fashion and high performance not only elevates the players’ game but also appeals to style-conscious spectators and amateur players alike. As we look to the future, one thing is certain: tennis fashion will continue to evolve, serving up new styles that reflect both the spirit of the game and the zeitgeist of our times.
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