If you find yourself in South Korea and decide to indulge in top-grade beef, chances are you’ll encounter Hanwoo, a native breed that has roamed the Korean peninsula for over 2,000 years. But it’s not just any old cow. Like the better-known Japanese Wagyu, Hanwoo boasts exceptional marbling, only with less fat content, and a distinctive, robust flavour that sets it apart.
Raised free-range in the South Korean countryside, Hanwoo cattle thrive on a diet of grain or grass and occasionally beer-enriched feed. Its high price tag is driven by quality and the fact that demand significantly exceeds supply. South Korea has even less land for rearing its indigenous cattle than Japan; and Hanwoo are smaller creatures. This scarcity, coupled with the breed’s superior attributes, places Hanwoo in the same league as Wagyu.
The importance of Hanwoo in Korea goes far beyond the kitchen. Before the 1960s, Korea was primarily an agrarian society where cattle were indispensable for farming. “Cows were the main labour force of agriculture, responsible for tasks such as ploughing fields, carrying heavy loads and other necessary duties,” explains Yoon Won-suk, executive chef at Byeokje Galbi, a restaurant in Seoul renowned for its barbecued beef short ribs since 1986. “They even played a part in solving economic problems because they were sold when a large amount of money was needed [by farmers].” These cows were so valuable that butchering them was reserved for the wealthy or elite, making Hanwoo a symbol of prosperity and abundance.
Veneration for the breed can be traced back to ancient times, as detailed by Bae Jae-hwan, head chef at Nanro Lab, a subsidiary of Nanro, a Seoul-based nonprofit organisation dedicated to promoting traditional Korean food culture; the lab focuses on the science of Korean barbecue. “Hanwoo has had a significant presence in almost all large-scale events such as ancestral rites, the establishment of households and national ceremonies. It has been a special delicacy enjoyed on special occasions since ancient times.” Bae further explains the Korean saying “Il du baek mi”, which means “one cow, 100 flavours”, highlighting the tradition of using every part of the cow in many different dishes.
One of the most fascinating aspects of Hanwoo is the sheer number of cuts available. While countries like the US and France have 22 and 35 cuts of beef, respectively, Korea boasts more than 160 names for cuts and 120 retail cuts. “[Koreans] had to think about how to use it as much as possible, so we came up with various methods, such as using different parts of the cow, like bones and feet, for broth,” says Mingoo Kang, author of Jang: The Soul of Korean Cooking, and chef-owner of Mingles and Festa by Mingoo in Seoul, and Hansik Goo in Hong Kong.
Each Hanwoo cut offers a unique flavour and texture, which is why Korean cuisine has developed a variety of dishes to highlight these differences. The most popular cut at Byeokje Galbi is galbi—”ribs” in Korean—which, as Yoon notes, “have less movement compared to other muscle-heavy parts and are therefore perceived as more delicious. For this reason, Koreans have long had the perception that beef ribs are precious.” At Byeokje Galbi, diners can enjoy an elaborate Hanwoo feast including the ribs and many other cuts such as sirloin, ribeye, skirt, tenderloin, tongue and the outer muscle of the ribeye roll—a Korean beef cut known as “shrimp meat”, as it resembles the crustacean’s curvature—among others.
Acclaimed chef Kang personally prefers “to grill it without seasoning to enjoy the taste of the meat first”. He also enjoys gomtang, a rich broth made with an assortment of beef parts including bone and brisket, which showcases Hanwoo’s depth of flavour in a comforting dish that is also loved for its nutritional value. Kang makes use of Hanwoo at all his restaurants, serving it grilled, stuffed inside dumplings, as short rib patties, or soondae, a type of Korean blood sausage.
Selecting top-quality Hanwoo is a meticulous process. At Byeokje Galbi, only the top one per cent of cattle, graded 1++ with a Beef Marbling Score (BMS) of 9, make the cut. “Depending on the degree of marbling, meat colour, fat colour, firmness and maturity, the meat quality of Hanwoo is classified into five grades,” Yoon explains. This rigorous grading ensures that only the finest beef reaches the customer’s plate.
Despite its exceptional quality, Hanwoo remains relatively unknown outside Korea, primarily due to export challenges. “Exporting Hanwoo is indeed a pressing issue that needs improvement. Culture and industry can develop through exchange, and Hanwoo is now ready to enter the international market,” says Choi Jung-yoon, a Korean chef, researcher and the founder of Nanro. Efforts are underway to introduce the breed to new markets, including the US, Europe and beyond, building on recent successes in Hong Kong, Cambodia, Macau, the UAE and Malaysia.
The beef’s qualities, coupled with Korea’s rich culinary traditions, present an exciting opportunity for global food enthusiasts. “When Hanwoo becomes known worldwide, Korean beef culture and its cooking methods will also be introduced,” adds Choi. This introduction promises to diversify how people consume and enjoy beef, offering new experiences for all. “If you look closely at a Korean barbecue table, 50 per cent of the ingredients are plant-based. If the culture of enjoying meat with plant-based ingredients such as ssam, or leaf wraps, kimchi and sauces, alongside fermented foods [becomes popular], it could offer new experiences for meat-centric diets worldwide and contribute to environmental sustainability.”
Hanwoo is more than just a type of beef; it’s a cultural treasure that embodies Korea’s agricultural history and culinary innovation. With marbling that rivals the finest luxury meats and a flavour profile that strikes a golden balance, it is poised to challenge Wagyu’s supremacy. So, if you’re on the hunt for an exceptional beef experience, let Hanwoo be your guide through Korea’s storied culinary landscape. My advice: get ahead of the herd and savour Hanwoo before the rest of the world catches on.
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