Tequila has come a long way from being the reductive poster child for bad decisions and head-splitting hangovers. Today, this agave-based spirit has found its way into the glasses—and hearts—of Asia’s most discerning drinkers. But what’s behind this intoxicating transformation?
Ahead of International Tequila Day, which falls on July 24 each year, Tatler Dining speaks to two experts about the rise of sipping tequila in Asia, and if it’s here to stay for good.
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Jay Khan, founder of Coa in Hong Kong
Diving straight into the shift from shots to sips, Jay Khan, the mastermind behind Coa—one of Hong Kong’s best bars—and forerunner in pushing the agave agenda in Asia’s cocktail scene, attributes it to a perfect storm of factors: “The global craft cocktail movement, where higher quality artisanal tequila is embraced, has directly led to the emergence of new craft brands focusing on terroir, authenticity, culture and craftsmanship. Through education, consumers are more knowledgeable and aware too.” In other words, we’ve all grown up a bit, and so has our tequila.
Gabriel Lowe, co-owner of Cat Bite Club in Singapore
Gabriel Lowe, co-owner of Cat Bite Club—one of Singapore’s fast-rising cocktail bars, adds another perspective: “Great tequila has always existed. Like many things, a majority of the population was introduced to a lesser version early on.” He points out that tequila has been on a steady rise for years, partly due to consumer education and, rather interestingly, the surge in celebrity tequila brands. Perhaps the likes of George Clooney’s Casamigos and Kendall Jenner’s 818 may have already graced your shopping cart, awaiting a final check-out.
But while the celebrity effect may have opened more doors for new consumers, not all that glitters is gold. Lowe calls celebrity tequila a “double-edged sword,” noting that they’re often “over-marketed with more additives than actual history.” Khan is quick to chime in: “Not everyone is doing the right thing. Some brands are clearly doing it for financial gain by producing something cheap, using machines like the diffuser, and selling it at a premium,” he explains.
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The agave plant is baked in high heat when making tequila (Photo: Unsplash / Mary West)
Fortunately, it doesn’t require much to be a tad more discerning when it comes to picking out a tequila to try. Both Khan and Lowe suggest downloading the Tequila Matchmaker app, where one can browse from an independently run database to identify deserving tequilas that are free of additives while crowd-sourcing opinions from reviews. “There is a natural sweetness in tequila prevalent in all age ranges. Look for the vegetal, citrus, and earthy qualities,” reveals Lowe.
Agave masterclasses conducted at Cat Bite Club for enthusiasts over some light bites
Before tasting, here’s a quick Tequila 101. Between blanco, reposado, and añejo, both Khan and Lowe lean towards the reposado for sipping. It is typically aged for at least two months to a year in used American oak barrels. “I enjoy the pure taste of agave, but think it benefits from a little time to mellow out,” shares Lowe. For añejo, the ageing process is prolonged for at least a year to upwards of three years. Anything older than three years is labelled as extra añejo.
As for blanco, it is technically ‘unaged’, but spends up to two months tops in a stainless steel or neutral oak vessel. Lowe adds, “Blanco is the best way to taste the natural flavours of tequila with all its brightness and vegetable qualities present.”
Tequila has come a long way from being a shot with lime and salt (Photo: Unsplash / Francisco Galarza)
But perhaps the biggest misconception of tequila is that it is “traditionally drunk as a shot and with lime and salt,” says Khan. “And if you still think so, then you are wrong.” Instead, for first-timers who are probably familiar with whisky and rum or sweeter spirits, Khan recommends trying aged tequilas. And for a touch of extra natural sweetness, look out for tequilas that are steeped in cooked agaves. Echoing the same sentiment, Lowe advises ditching the lime and salt for a slice of orange or a big ice cube if the flavours ever get too intense.
Khan highly recommends trying Ocho tequila, one that evinces vintage and terroir where the tastes vary from year to year. “Just like wine,” he muses. “It is a seriously delicious tequila which is very well priced for its quality. But most importantly, it’s fun and stylish.” Lowe, on the other hand, endorses the Cascahuin Tahona, an artisanal tequila that is made traditionally, for its beautiful, natural sweetness and taste of pure agave.
The Decaf Negroni at Coa
The signature Cat Bite Margarita
As for the future? Both experts see exciting times ahead. Khan expects more celebrity brands, while Lowe foresees a rise in high-end blancos, noting that some of the most sought-after tequilas are high-proof and unaged. Another one to watch in the agave scene is Mezcal, Tequila’s smoky, mysterious cousin—but that’s a tale reserved for another time.
So next time you’re at a bar, exchange tequila shots for sips and think twice before reaching for the lime and salt—your tastebuds will thank you.
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