In the esteemed world of haute horlogerie, where tradition once reigned supreme, a wave of innovation has recently reshaped the landscape. The classic round watch face, long revered for its aesthetic and technical expertise, now finds itself among a cadre of more audacious and imaginative counterparts. This burgeoning trend in watchmaking transcends mere timekeeping; it heralds a bold declaration of personal style and celebrates the inherent creativity of its makers.
This year, major brands have ventured beyond convention, embracing designs that defy tradition. Their efforts have not only captured the attention of the watch world, but also set the stage for a dynamic evolution in how we interpret the function and fashion of a timepiece. Much of this innovation was showcased in Geneva at the annual Watches & Wonders fair, where newly launched novelties set the trends for the rest of the year.
Cartier, whose collections are always eagerly anticipated, demonstrated its command of form with new models in its Baignoire, Tank, Santos, and Tortue families. Notably, these collections champion non-traditional shapes. Unconventional shapes are familiar territory for the jeweller and watchmaker, whose popular timepieces like the Tank and Crash have long relied on a design-driven identity.
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The Pebble is one of many unusual shapes from Cartier
Nic James, a Cartier enthusiast, observes, “The distinctiveness of Cartier’s shapes has made its watches highly recognisable. These bold new designs not only keep the brand exciting and relevant, but also attract the next generation of collectors.”
The Reflection de Cartier, in particular, received praise during its release at the fair. This unusual quartz-powered watch is concealed and set inside the opening of a cuff. The “reflection” is made on the opposite side of the cuff’s opening, onto the polished surface of either white or yellow gold, creating a sort of backward time-telling optical illusion.
James adds, “It stands out as a striking example of the brand’s avant-garde approach to watchmaking. Its geometric patterns and reflective surfaces create a stunning play of light, making it a true statement piece. This watch pushes the boundaries of traditional design and function.”
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Hermès’ first-ever sports watch, the Cut, also exemplifies this trend. Subtly deviating from the typical round shape, the maison’s designers opted for a gently curved case that maintains classic elegance while introducing a modern twist. This shape not only enhances the watch’s visual appeal, but also reflects Hermès’s philosophy of functional simplicity and aesthetic sophistication.
Laurent Dordet, CEO of Hermès Horloger, comments on the design: “The silhouette has never been done before. Our customers wanted a sporty, urban watch—something comfortable and smooth on the wrist. The Cut exemplifies this.”
Hermès Cut gives the round shape a modern twist
Independent watchmakers have similarly embraced unconventional design codes, with several models unveiled this year deserving special mention. Designed by the legendary Gerald Genta in 2006 for his Gerald Charles brand, the enigmatic contours of the Maestro case have been slimmed down and integrated with an asymmetrical bracelet to become the Masterlink.
Beyond the fair, Matteo Violet-Vianello was inspired by mid-century French architect Charlotte Perriand’s free-form table designs to create the Anoma, while Sylvain Berneron’s Mirage is influenced by the movement that powers it.
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The shape of the movement informs the ultimate shape of Berneron’s Mirage timepiece
All these watches have been wildly popular, gaining overwhelmingly positive feedback and emerging as commercial successes. Clearly, the market is receptive to innovation in haute horlogerie, an industry often associated with heritage and history.
“Consumers seek new trends for various reasons, and novelty is one of the driving forces. We are naturally curious and drawn to new experiences, and uniquely shaped watches offer a sense of freshness that is appealing,” observes Ashvin Valiram, executive director of luxury retail group Valiram, which owns and operates Swiss Watch.
“While non-traditional watch designs may not be entirely new, social media platforms now have a huge influence, shaping design trends and determining what becomes popular on an unprecedented scale.”
But it’s not just new buyers who are embracing this trend. Tay Liam Khoon, managing director of Cortina Watch Malaysia, says, “The market is always evolving, even with long-time collectors. Newcomers may initially lean towards conventional round cases, but existing collectors might seek to complement their collections with something unique.
“Unconventional shapes allow individuals to find timepieces that reflect their distinct personalities and tastes. Some brands also create different shapes to appeal to these markets. As mechanical pieces of art, it’s refreshing to see creativity in these areas.”
The Anoma case is inspired by French architect Charlotte Perriand’s free-form table designss
From a collector’s perspective, this is especially accurate. James adds, “After collecting watches for a long time, they all start to look similar. Cartier attracts me because they go against the grain and release watches in shapes that are unexpected. I could build a collection of Cartier, and each watch would look completely different.”
Beyond Cartier, there is historical precedent for non-round shapes. Models like Tag Heuer’s Monaco, the Hamilton Ventura, and Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak are pioneering designs. Watchmakers such as Patek Philippe have also led the way with designs like the Nautilus and the Golden Ellipse, blending technical prowess with aesthetic sophistication and inspiring a lineage of distinctive designs.
Brands with younger pedigrees have also explored the artistic potential of unusual shapes. Hublot and Bvlgari, for instance, are known for their bold, angular designs with their Serpentine Tubogas and sharply geometric Octo lines, respectively. Industry stalwart F.P.Journe is celebrated for elegant designs and uniquely shaped cases that house complex movements, while indie brands like MB&F and Urwerk continue to challenge traditional aesthetics with radical designs.
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The futuristic-looking Urwerk UV-100
These designs were once considered unconventional, but today, a watch that isn’t round seems like a natural choice for both novice buyers and seasoned collectors. This shift represents a tipping point—design-driven timepieces with unusual case shapes are now seen as acceptable for everyday use, no longer relegated to special occasions.
“At one point, any shape apart from round, square, or rectangle was considered unusual. Today, there are more case shapes seen as typical,” Tay observes. “This includes Franck Muller’s tonneau, the octagonal shapes in Patek Philippe’s Nautilus and Aquanaut, or Bvlgari’s Octo line. Among seasoned collectors, there’s an upward trend in asymmetrical shapes like Corum’s collections or Jacob & Co’s designs. In the future, these could become normalised.”
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Gerald Charles Maestro is another one of Gerald Genta’s designs
As trends have leaned toward smaller case sizes in recent years, opting for unconventional designs compensates for the increasingly smaller space available for innovation.
“This year, many collectors and celebrities have gravitated toward smaller watches. Brands like Cartier and Piaget, known for their interesting shapes, have become popular once more,” James notes. “Vintage watches, often smaller and accessible, come in various shapes and sizes. This could explain why unusual shapes seem less unusual now.”
Leading retailers have a buoyant outlook on the future of uniquely shaped watches. Valiram, ever attuned to industry trends, confidently asserts, “The market for unconventional shapes will continue to grow, driven by our watchmaking partners who excel in pushing design boundaries.”
Similarly, Tay envisions these avant-garde creations as more than mere fashion accessories but as future heirlooms. “These watches,” he predicts, “often seen as statement pieces, will become collectibles, sought after for their rarity and distinctive appeal.”
The MB&F HM8 Mark Blue 2 recalls the shape of a sports car
In the grand tapestry of watchmaking, the recent embrace of unconventional shapes represents more than a trend—it marks a pivotal evolution in luxury timepieces. These daring designs signify a shift toward greater personal expression within haute horlogerie.
Historically, the precision of a circular case and dial symbolised technical purity and classical ethos. Today, however, the bold contours of non-traditional watches reflect the individuality of their wearers, serving as a canvas for personal style and aesthetic preference.
This movement challenges the norms of watchmaking and enriches its history, proving that watches are not merely instruments of time, but also profound expressions of personal identity and cultural zeitgeist.
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