Some see him through the restaurants he’s opened, others by the cuisine he crafts, the shows he hosts, or his vibrant social media presence. However you choose to view him, one thing is clear: chef Lucas Sin is redefining what it means to be an ambassador for Hong Kong cuisine and culture.
For those unfamiliar with Sin, his journey is nothing short of remarkable. At 16 years old, he opened his first restaurant in an abandoned newspaper factory in Hong Kong, where he and a friend served a 13-course tasting menu three nights a week. He later graduated from Yale with a degree in cognitive science and English, all while running a weekend pop-up restaurant, Y Pop-up. In his final semester at Yale, Sin joined Junzi Kitchen, a casual Chinese-American eatery, and later collaborated with Nice Day—an initiative that partners with Chinese-American restaurant owners to open new establishments, deliver their cuisine, or offer it as take-out in New York’s suburbs.
You might also like: How to cook the perfect baked pork chop rice with chef Lucas Sin and comedian Jimmy O. Yang
In short, the 31-year-old chef’s passion for food is undeniable, with an impressive résumé to match. His true affection, however, lies with affordable and accessible cuisine, which he believes is often misunderstood by the public.
“I’m not interested in fine dining,” he tells Tatler. “The creative perspective can be, of course, interesting but that summarises it. I’m rather fascinated by casual dining, particularly the history and anthropology behind it.
“Dishes do not need to be pricey or elevated to be appreciated.”
By - Lucas Sin
A cha chaan teng lover
These days, the chef is working on a book exploring Hong Kong’s cha chaan teng culture—the quintessential Hong Kong-style cafés and diners that, in his view, form the heart of the city.
“There are many types of restaurants in Hong Kong that reflect our food culture and the way we like to eat,” he says. “For me, the cha chaan teng is one of the most democratic. It’s truly by the people, for the people, setting the pace of daily life in Hong Kong”.
Sin believes the beauty of a cha chaan teng lies in its simplicity: scrambled eggs are the ultimate test of a cook’s skill; the quality of the bread comes next, followed by the texture of the noodles. While these establishments share a common structure, the chef and YouTube host suggests ordering their set menu to truly understand the essence of each one.
“I grew up in various neighbourhoods—Wong Tai Sin, Kowloon City, North Point… The nearest cha chaan teng was always the best one,” he recalls. “These places were seamlessly woven into my childhood, and they remain a central part of my life, at the core of who I am.”
Lucas Sin on set with Hong Kong team East Wind Good Fortune (Photo: Mag Lam)
Lucas Sin at the Ap Lei Chau Market (Photo: Jonathan Ho)
While the book doesn’t have a release date yet, Sin continues to actively work on it, offering us a few tantalising teasers: it will feature extensive research, delicious recipes and photographs captured by local Hong Kong artists.
“I’m really hoping to give people a deep understanding of cha chaan teng, one that hasn’t been explored in the English language before,” he says.
Though writing is a crucial medium for spreading the word, Sin has also mastered other platforms. In June, the Street Eats series he hosts for American media outlet Bon Appétit won the James Beard Award for Best Unscripted Visual Media. It was an exhilarating moment, providing him with the opportunity to showcase Cantonese cuisine to a global audience, with highlights including dai pai dong, clay pot rice, one-stop fish markets, and whole-roasted underground hog.
“I’m incredibly proud of Hong Kong and the team,” he says. “When we started doing this show, we were just excited to be able to dive a little bit deeper into aspects of our food culture, but I feel that we captured so much more. The fact that Hong Kong cuisine and a Hong Kong crew, East Wind Good Fortune, got rewarded with such a big American award is a win for the culture.”
Misconceptions about Chinese cuisine
While his book and YouTube shows are relatively recent, Sin’s passion for affordable and accessible Chinese cuisine began years ago. In the United States, he realised how misunderstood Chinese-American cuisine was, despite being the second most delivered food genre after pizza. “Some research shows that there are more Chinese-American restaurants than McDonald’s, KFC and Taco Bell combined,” he says. “Yet, people still think less of it because it’s affordable”.
The rise of anti-Asian hate during the Covid-19 pandemic and ongoing tensions between the United States and China haven’t helped the cuisine’s reputation. However, Sin is cautious not to jump to conclusions: while racism and discrimination might play a role, they are far from the whole picture.
“Dishes do not need to be pricey or elevated to be appreciated,” he says. “Often, Chinese food is cheaper in the United States, and that’s normal. There are historical reasons for that—mostly linked to labour and immigration laws—and it’s not solely rooted in racism.”
He does, however, emphasise that the West has only just begun to grasp the complexity of Chinese cuisine: “The techniques and ingredients vary so much between China’s regions that it would be a mistake to put all of them within the same price range,” he says.
By now, it’s clear that Sin approaches his craft with an educated and thoughtful perspective. And there’s a reason for that: “Everything that I did was built off the shoulders of the people who did it before me,” he says. “So the minimum I can do is study it and take it seriously. Understanding the historical and social context is crucial for me”.
Shanghai and the food revolution
Photos from Lucas Sin’s cha chaan teng takeover of Egg Shanghai (Photo: Instagram / @lucas.sin)
After leaving New York in 2021, Sin has been dividing his time between two other concrete jungles: Hong Kong and Shanghai, where he’s now based. There, he continues his projects while thoroughly immersing himself in the city’s vibrant food scene—one he describes as among the most exciting in the world at the moment.
“There’s this new generation of kids revolutionising everything here,” he says.
One way to view this transformation, he suggests, is through the lens of bistros and wines, and how the Shanghainese have creatively appropriated French heritage.
“For bistros, people in Shanghai have adopted the setup and disrupted it by incorporating food influenced by their own culture,” he says. “For wine, we’re now seeing French-trained winemakers using different grapes from the local terroir and blending them. So now, you’ll find wine with 70% Chardonnay, 20% Ningxia rice wine, and 10% Pinot Noir, and it’s just fascinating. This is how you revolutionise culture”.
READ MORE
Meet Andrew Wong, the 21-year-old culinary prodigy running a private kitchen from his family home
The best dai pai dong in Hong Kong, according to Tatler’s editors