- Chef Peggy Chan is a big advocate of zero waste, using what would usually be thrown away – this even extends to some of the decor on display
- Delicious vegetarian alternatives include a rich foie gras, which was made with cocoa butter, cashew, white truffle oil and miso
What happens when two pork-loving omnivores visit Nectar Integrative Dining, a fine-dining vegetarian restaurant by chef Peggy Chan?
They have a great meal.
My guest and I had " unknown to each other " been planning follow-up meals after our dinner at Nectar, fearing that we'd still be hungry. That wasn't the case.
Chan is a big advocate of zero waste, and of using what would usually be thrown away " which even extends to some of the decor in the Nectar space, which previously housed the chef's Grassroots Pantry (which was a more casual concept). Zero-waste is great " but it does not matter if you leave feeling virtuous, if the results aren't delicious.
We knew we were in for a treat from the amuse bouches of coconut tiradito with aji Amarillo sauce, complexly flavoured dolmades " using yam leaf, instead of the usual grape leaf, and with a brown rice filling; and dense and crunchy panko-crusted pickled burdock with home-made tomato jam.
The start of the eight course meal (HK$950 plus 10 per cent; there are also five- and 12-course offerings for HK$680 and HK$1,380 respectively) was "tuna" temaki " with tomatoes replacing the fish. With sliced avocado adding creaminess and housemade sriracha adding a bit of heat, the handroll was substantial, and one of our favourite dishes.
The two-bite miang kham " usually a Thai appetiser with dried shrimps (or fish), peanuts, lime and coconut " is, at Nectar, made with banana blossoms, fragrant leaves, and a shiitake stem XO. About the only thing it has in common " ingredients wise " is the wrapper of wild pepper leaf, but it's as vividly flavoured as the original.
The dish of "faux gras" is a worthy replacement for foie gras. It has the same smooth richness as the fattened goose liver, but was made with cocoa butter, cashew, white truffle oil and miso.
I loved the bak kut teh with truffle wonton. The turmeric-scented wonton wrapper is filled with a hearty zero-waste carrot pulp (made from juicing the vegetable), and the shiitake mushroom based broth has many of the same dried Chinese ingredients as traditional bak kut teh, including kei ji (goji berries), liquorice and star anise. Initially it tasted too sweet, but the warmth from the spices came through.
Another favourite was the fettucine " made with purslane, spinach and tofu " with a red pepper salami, vegan butter and hazelnut pecorino. The big surprise was the salami " its flavour was very reminiscent of pepperoni.
As much as we wanted to like the vegetarian cheeses, given Chan's enthusiasm as she described each of the home-made offerings, it was, sadly, the only course where we missed the real thing.
The cheeses " mostly made of nuts and seeds " were varied in taste and texture, and we actually liked the flavour of several of them, but we still prefer animal milk cheeses.
We loved both desserts, especially the banana cake made of zero waste banana flour " the whole fruit, skin and all " is ground and dried into flour, and which tastes more banana-y than you'd think.
Nectar Integrative Dining, Centrestage, 108 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, tel: 2873 3353. HK$950 per person without drinks or the service charge.
Three other new restaurants in Sheung Wan worth trying
Shabu-shabu in Hong Kong: Kuro Shabu in Sheung Wan lets ingredients shine
Top quality Mexican food save the tacos in Sheung Wan at Taqueria Super Macho
A Thai fusion lunch for less than US$12 at Clicked in Sheung Wan
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