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Leap year? No problem – 5 best perpetual calendar luxury watches that won’t forget the date, from Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and others

South China Morning Post

發布於 2020年02月29日00:02 • Gloria Fung gloria.fung@scmp.com

You’d be forgiven for wishing 2020 was over already, but sadly it’s a leap year – still at least you won’t have to reset your watch with one of these smart perpetual calendar timepieces

These five luxury wristwatches don’t need the date changing, even when it’s a leap year. Photo: MB&F
These five luxury wristwatches don’t need the date changing, even when it’s a leap year. Photo: MB&F

With the coronavirus disrupting lives around the world, you'd be forgiven for wishing 2020 would end sooner. Unluckily for us, this a leap year and we have no choice but to suffer one extra day. But leap years are good news for some " namely timepiece lovers who own perpetual calendar watches. On every February 29, perpetual calendar owners get to laugh in the face of those who have to manually adjust their annual calendar watches to correctly reflect the extra day of the year.

Movement of the Turbograph Perpetual 'Pour le Merite'. Photo: A. Lange & SOhne
Movement of the Turbograph Perpetual 'Pour le Merite'. Photo: A. Lange & SOhne

Perpetual calendars are mechanical masterpieces that correctly display the month, date and day, with some featuring a leap year indicator, without requiring any adjustments at midnight on February 29. A one-day adjustment is required only once every century so long as they're regularly wound.

The complication is one of the most celebrated and complex; here we look at a handful of watchmakers who've incorporated this function into designs.

A. Lange & SOhne gets its first ever stainless steel collection

A. Lange & SOhne

Turbograph Perpetual 'Pour le Merite' Photo: A. Lange & SOhne
Turbograph Perpetual 'Pour le Merite' Photo: A. Lange & SOhne

The perpetual calendar complication is an icon of sorts at the house of A. Lange & SOhne. The Turbograph Perpetual "Pour le Merite" combines the perpetual calendar function with that of a tourbillon, and features a moon phase that sits prominently at the 12 o'clock position. In place of the house's signature double-disc big date display, the date dial circles the moon phase.

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe's Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 in stainless steel. Photo: Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe's Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 in stainless steel. Photo: Patek Philippe

You won't be able to get your hands on this one-of-a kind-watch, but it's worth mentioning Patek Philippe's Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 in stainless steel because it was sold for 31 million Swiss Francs (US$31.8 million) at auction in 2019, setting a record for most expensive wristwatch ever auctioned. The watch has 20 functions, including the perpetual calendar, minute repeater and a tourbillon. There are so many indications that both sides of the watch are dials, each with the black side displaying the perpetual calendar readings.

Which watches would you buy if Patek Philippe gave you an unlimited budget?

Audemars Piguet

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A post shared by Austen Chu (@horoloupe) on Jan 16, 2020 at 4:02am PST

The Royal Oak is presented for the first time with the perpetual calendar function in titanium. A limited release from Audemars Piguet in collaboration with watch collector Austen Chu, the piece is limited to 888 pieces worldwide. The Audemars Piguet logo is set atop the moon phase dial at six o'clock.

MB&F

MB&F's Legacy Machine Perpetual. Photo: MB&F
MB&F's Legacy Machine Perpetual. Photo: MB&F

The cult favourite Legacy Machine now offers a version with the leap year calendar function. The Legacy Machine Perpetual features a layered openwork face; the different dials appear to stay afloat on the skeletonised design. You'll find the leap year indication at the seven o'clock position. The piece comes in a number of references. This reference here in 18-carat yellow gold with blue face rendition is limited to 25 pieces.

Which luxury watch brand sold the most expensive timepiece in Asia?

Blancpain

Blancpain's Villeret QuantiEme Perpetuel. Photo: Blancpain
Blancpain's Villeret QuantiEme Perpetuel. Photo: Blancpain

The large 40mm dial of Blancpain's Villeret makes for the perfect canvas for a perpetual calendar watch. Only 88 pieces of this limited edition Villeret QuantiEme Perpetuel have been produced, and it features a platinum case and a blue dial. The month, date, moonphase and date are cleanly laid out across the dial, with the sleek silver moon adding to the crisp look of the design. The leap year indication shares a dial with the month display positioned at 12 o'clock.

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Copyright (c) 2020. South China Morning Post Publishers Ltd. All rights reserved.

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