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時尚

DON’T JUDGE ME |巴黎男裝周生態,從街拍開始

明周文化

更新於 2020年01月21日11:32 • 發布於 2020年01月21日11:32

時裝本是日常穿衣之道,天橋模特兒穿上的衣服,與實際時裝分子的穿搭總有出入,總覺得,真正的時尚趨勢,是落在時裝騷的場外,而非場內;街拍,或許才是真正反應設計師的受歡迎程度。

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Closing the #DiorWinter20 men's show by @MrKimJones, a raglan overcoat referencing an archive dress from the Winter 1969 Haute Couture collection by Marc Bohan was the most exclusive piece of the season. Swipe to discover the finale of the show, and click on the link in our bio to discover the whole event!

A post shared by Dior Official (@dior) on Jan 18, 2020 at 1:31pm PST

 

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Meet Edward from @MrKimJones's studio and discover the story behind the final look from the #DiorWinter20 men's show. A masterpiece of savoir-faire, the coat, which was made in the Dior and Vermont ateliers, requiring more than 900 hours of embroidery work, was based on a dress designed by Marc Bohan for the House's Winter 1969 Haute Couture collection. #DiorSavoirFaire

A post shared by Dior Official (@dior) on Jan 18, 2020 at 5:31pm PST

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#LVMenFW20 Constructing a new relationship with suiting. #VirgilAbloh presented his latest collection for #LouisVuitton at the Jardin des Tuileries in Paris. Watch now on IGTV and at louisvuitton.com Music by @cybotronlive @juan.cybotron.atkins Video by @_81

A post shared by Louis Vuitton Official (@louisvuitton) on Jan 19, 2020 at 12:47pm PST

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坦白說,今季巴黎男裝周比過往幾乎更趨向乏味而空洞,很多大騷像Thom Browne、CELINE都不在這次的日程時間表出現,服裝設計亦說不上令人過於驚豔。但有趣的情況是,這次各大品牌的創意總監似乎見到了街頭時尚的盡頭,於是嘗試在正裝之中進行一些改革:說過街頭已死的Virgil Abloh,在,Louis Vuitton 2020 秋冬男裝展現多套合身西裝,他坦言:「西裝是人們從未看過我的一面。」又如Dior Men,Kim Jones再沒有與其他人氣藝術家或潮牌聯乘,反之向英國龐克大師Judy Blame致敬,最後一套花了一千小時製作的閃石大衣,更是盡顯Dior對男裝工藝的堅持。

但,一眾時尚達人會買帳嗎?街拍時尚好似從時裝周開始已經伴隨出現,大家都穿上個人風格強烈的服裝示人;近年為了吸引街頭攝影師的眼光,大家都清一色地穿上像Balenciaga、Prada、Dior等相當標誌性的大熱單品,那些滿是logo、monogram、聯乘波鞋總是如山倒海出現。今次看到時裝周街拍的不同,是很多街拍攝影師都回歸時裝真義,捕捉正裝穿搭的男生;一名攝影師朋友直言:「街頭時尚真的要完了吧?」當然,街頭風結終有它一定的客源,但是正裝穿搭的講究,才是那種歷久不衰的永恆。我想,品牌們是聰明的,特別在經濟困難的日子,大家都只會想買一些簡約而耐看的單品,相個未來一兩季,穿正裝的人,又起死回生了。

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