- The area has been in the news lately because of the ongoing protests that have rocked the city
- Its name means ‘deep water pier’, but the connection to the sea was lost by the 1970s after redevelopment and land reclamation
Erin Chan Yeuk-hang, 21, a university graduate, has been living in the poorest district in Hong Kong since she was a toddler. Sham Shui Po is well known for its street markets, but just as iconic are its old residential blocks, some of them housing Hong Kong's notorious subdivided flats.
Among the narrow streets, jam-packed stores and musty computer arcades lie a cornucopia of electronic gems for gadget lovers.
But Sham Shui Po's status as an accessories hub also brought unwanted attention when on August 6, Baptist University student union president Keith Fong Chung-yin was cornered by officers at a flea market and found in possession of 10 laser pointers, items commonly available at stalls along Apliu Street.
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He was arrested on the scene for "possessing offensive weapons", with the devices, totalling HK$4,200 (US$535) in value, seized.
The incident caused a furore. Laser pointers emitting green and blue beams of light have been widely used in extradition bill protests as the city is mired in a political crisis that has blazed for nearly three months.
Protesters use the laser pointers during demonstrations to confuse or provoke officers and deter others from taking photographs of them that might compromise their identity.
Fong's arrest did not sit well with protesters and their supporters, leading to crowds surrounding Sham Shui Po Police Station to call for his release, and officers eventually resorting to tear gas to disperse them.
A few days later more tear gas was fired when protesters retaliated by organising an illegal assembly there.
Just last Wednesday, demonstrators marked the Hungry Ghost Festival by burning joss paper with images of Chief Executive Carrie Lam Cheng Yuet-ngor and police chief Stephen Lo Wai-chung outside the station. The night ended with more rounds of tear gas fired to disperse angry crowds.
The release of tear gas in a densely built-up environment like Sham Shui Po has stirred controversy, with residents decrying police tactics.
This week, City Weekend explores a Sham Shui Po before it became a flashpoint in the recent protests.
What is the history behind Sham Shui Po?
Resident Chan says: "When I tell people that I live in Sham Shui Po, they would always say 'my grandparents live there' or 'it is full of obsolete tong lau (tenement buildings) right?' Or they think it is infested with triads.
"I don't feel offended, I just have a good laugh about it."
Situated in the north-western part of Kowloon, Sham Shui Po is one of Hong Kong's most densely populated neighbourhoods. It derives its name from originally being a pier, as the word 'Sham Shui' means deep water while 'Po' refers to pier in Cantonese.
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The district was one of the oldest and earliest developed areas in Hong Kong. In the 1910s, the British colonial government launched the first of a succession land reclamation works there, which would ultimately end its status as a trading port after the last docks closed in 1955.
In the 1960s, Sham Shui Po became known for being a textile and garment hub with many fabric merchants setting up shop there.
The district lost its connection with the sea in the 1970s when Nam Cheong Street nullah was covered over and a recreational park built.
Today, Sham Shui Po has a diverse mix of migrants from rural China, with many working-class families, seniors and new immigrants calling the neighbourhood home. Most in Hong Kong still consider it to be a place that retains the city's industrious spirit.
What are Sham Shui Po's unique places of interest?
The flea market on Apliu Street, located at exit C1 of Sham Shui Po MTR station, sports an array of affordable and second-hand electronics. It is also one of the few remaining "hawker permitted" zones in the city, where licensed vendors are allowed to sell hardware, including cameras, television sets and phones.
Other knick-knacks include antique watches and old coins.
The Golden Computer Arcade, just a five-minute walk from Apliu Street, is renowned for computer parts, accessories and products ranging from laptops to SD cards, USB sticks and many more. These places, according to Chan, are what gives Sham Shui Po its charm.
"The district's relatively cheap goods, the high-decibel peddling by vendors and constant haggling with customers over prices is what gives the place its unique atmosphere. It has a distinctive working-class vibe," she says.
Besides gadgets, the district also houses cheap and delectable local food, some of which are recommended by the Michelin Guide.
Those looking to fill their bellies with an authentic Hong Kong meal can try Hop Yik Tai's rice noodle rolls, known as cheong fun in Cantonese, for less than HK$20.
For a taste of old Hong Kong snacks, Kwan Kee Store is another Michelin-recommended haunt known for their home-made steamed rice puddings, white sugar cake and black sesame rolls.
How a group in Sham Shui Po is helping poor stall owners make ends meet
What are the social issues plaguing the area?
One negative stereotype of Sham Shui Po is how often the district gets associated with poor people living in subpar housing. According to government figures, 24.6 per cent of residents fall below the poverty line, the highest in comparison to other districts.
About 20.4 per cent of such households also receive help from the Comprehensive Social Security Assistance (CSSA) scheme, a rate that is the second-highest among all districts.
In 2018, the neighbourhood had 15,400 subdivided flats, notorious in Hong Kong for cramming multiple families into a single property split into barely liveable compartments.
Even more horrendous are caged or coffin homes " where only a bed space is offered, surrounded by metal caging " also found in the area. Besides hygiene issues, they are also major fire hazards. Residents of caged homes include the elderly, low-skilled workers and those who have fallen through society's cracks.
Despite all this, Chan believes there is more to Sham Shui Po than dilapidated homes and destitution.
"I think they are only a glimpse of Sham Shui Po, plus the town has come a long way. You can see many parts of the district that have been revitalised or renovated, such as Shek Kip Mei Estate and Mei Ho House," she says.
"Its urban development may not have grown by leaps and bounds, but it has made significant progress compared to a decade ago."
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