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時尚

DIOR 2020秋冬高級訂製|走進自然仙境

明周文化

更新於 2020年07月07日07:42 • 發布於 2020年07月07日07:22

一場肺炎疫情考起各大品牌對時裝騷的展現方式。於是乎,Dior在2020秋冬高級訂製時裝騷首次以線上直播的形式,將高級訂制系列製作作成一部長達十分鐘的電影,由意大利知名導演Matteo Garrone操刀,以奇幻敘事方式,重塑高級訂製服最引人入勝的精湛工藝,時尚與藝術的結合,原來可以像魔法一樣令人興奮。

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Seeking an innovative way to present the Autumn-Winter 2020-2021 Haute Couture collection, @MariaGraziaChiuri conceived 'Le Mythe Dior', a film directed by @MatteoGarroneOfficial, that could express the emotion of the Dior dream, and the inspiration behind the collection itself. Here, she discusses how her ideas crystallized during lockdown, the importance of savoir-faire, and the influence of female Surrealist artists and the Théâtre de la Mode.

A post shared by Dior Official (@dior) on Jul 6, 2020 at 7:46am PDT

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Behind the facade of 30 Avenue Montaigne, the beating heart of the house of Dior can be found in its fabled ateliers. For the Autumn-Winter 2020-2021 Haute Couture, @MariaGraziaChiuri recaptured that sense of wonder with miniature dresses contained in a traveling trunk bearing the emblematic Paris facade. Specially handcrafted in Italy, the trunk, which appeared in the enigmatic film directed by @MatteoGarroneOfficial that presented the collection, recalls the Théâtre de la Mode touring exhibition that captivated all who saw it in Europe and the US in the mid-1940s. #DiorCouture © @AdrienDirand

A post shared by Dior Official (@dior) on Jul 6, 2020 at 10:30am PDT

這一季在視覺效果上極具創意,將神話與超現實主義相碰撞,營造出森林、湖泊、精靈、人魚的自然仙境,當中令人驚艷的是,三十七套全新設計均以精緻的「微型服裝」呈現,顯得特別有趣。當然女裝創意總監Maria Grazia Chiuri依然維持她向來的女性主義風格,設計靈感來自三位女性創作者Lee Miller、Dora Maar 及Jacqueline Lamba的藝術作品,擁有一定女性意識。

 

但個人覺得是次主題擁有更深層次的意義:在百廢待興的二戰時期,Christian Dior先生參與巴黎‧迷你劇場展覽」(Le Theatre de la Mode)中眾多迷你高級訂制裙裝的設計與製作,亦意外地激發大眾在戰後對時尚的嚮往,如今Maria Grazia Chiuri恍如向Dior先生致敬,以浪漫的電影與奢華服裝展示人們對生活的盼望,美好事物的追求,猶如七十五年前的艱難時刻;時裝不一定是停留在風花雪月的層面,它可以讓人有所想像,有所期待,這亦是高訂系列的核心價值。

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